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pawnshop_trash
Gold Member
USA
603 Posts |
 Posted - 05/16/2007 : 00:59:04
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for the techs out there (Dr. Bob, your ears should be burning), what wattage soldering pen is best for pedal repair? there's a fine line between hot enough to prevent 'cold solder' connections and cool enough to not fry other components in the chain -- I've fried many a capacitor just in re-wiring guitars -- and the tight confines and small size of a circuit board doesn't allow much for heat dissipation.
for the sake of this question, let's assume the pedals are all older (pre-lead free solder, in other words standard 60/40 solder) and are made by Boss, DOD FX-series, or other pedals with FET footswitches. even more specifically, let's assume these are analog pedals, if that makes a difference in your preference.
alternately (for those who have adjustable-temperature soldering stations), what temperature (range) do you prefer for pedal repair?
any/all suggestions from those who don't often fry electronics would be most welcome! |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2007 : 14:54:06
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A 25-30 watt solder should do. I got mine at a canadian version of radioshack for about 12 bucks. I could of gotten the cheaper one at 7, but it had no ground prong.
I've used it lots on my sd-1, wah, clone pedal, guitar wiring.
I find giving the tip a bit of fresh solder before resting it against the soldering points helps. Keeping it tinned and wiping it on the sponge between soldering helps.
Solder pen? is that one of those cordless ones that heats instantly to solder temp and cools quickly enough to touch? That would be soo convenient as the cord is in the way at times
hope this helps |
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nosi0
Gold Member
Netherlands
511 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2007 : 15:09:41
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| how do you know if you've blown a capacitator? sorry a little off topic. |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2007 : 15:32:30
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Hi pawnshop_trash & guys
Quick answer.
A small pencil type soldering iron, of about 40 watts, the temp. controlled ones are the best.
In the case of a temp. controlled iron, you can go to about 60 watts.
Pick a fine tip of about 2mm or so maybe 2.5 or 3mm. it really depends on the type & size, of solder joint you are trying to make.
Solder - or Soder as the Americans call it, buy some about .71mm for PCB type work, & 1.2mm for heavier joints. like on the DC sockets that are sometimes soldered to the PCB., & if you start to tackle power supply repairs.
You can twist say 3 or 4 lengths of the thinner 0.71mm solder together to make a thicker solder.
You will have to convert the millimeters to Inches.
Oh yeah, make sure it's rosin core solder, never use plumbers solder paste on PCB's or any other electronic & electrical jobs
  Plumbers solder paste is HIGHLY CORROSIVE.....
Now the temp. should be about 600 deg F to about 800 Deg F
and PCB work is around 700 Deg F.
600 F can be a little cold, but works good on flexible PCB's like in some cameras & kids toys.
800 F is great for large areas of copper that can draw the heat from a soldering iron tip, and for very experienced people that really know how to solder.
700 F is a good, all round PCB temp.
it will take approx. 4 to 6 seconds of heat, before the joint is ready to accept the solder.
This is called, bring the joint up to temp.
I get my students, to count to put the iron to the joint,
Count to 4 & then apply the solder, it's a good way to practice, you may have to count to 6.
Any less & you will not have the correct temp on the joint.
Any longer, & you risk damaging the joint.
Buy or get some old cassette players to practice on.
Buy some GOOD Quality de-soldering braid, & maybe a desolder sucker.
Ammendment added on 03-Jun-2007
I use Chemtronics De-solder wick/braid.
I have tested 100's of different & more expensive brands, as part of my job, and Chemtronics, is by far the Very Best.
Most braids work, & at least get any brand if you can't find Chemtronics.
Chemtronics is a USA based company, that distribute world wide.
By the way, this info is for Lead based solder.
I have not conducted any tests fro Lead free Solder (RoHS).
http://www.wassco.com/80seresdblub1.html
Mouser may have it as well, according to a Google search.
http://www.chemtronics.com/products/aaa/e/desoldering_braid.asp
And practice - practice - practice.
If you have been damaging the caps used on the tone control pot, in a guitar cavity,
you have been applying TOO MUCH HEAT or for TOO LONG,
maybe you have one a mother, of a soldering iron, with a massive tip?
Me, I use a small oval tip at 800 Def F, but remember I have been soldering & teaching people to solder for about 20+ years.
Hope this answers some of your questions. 
And as I said that's, the Quick answer, to your questions.
Anyone else, please feel free to add your comments & experiences to mine.
Regards Dr. Bob  |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 06/02/2007 16:40:59 |
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pawnshop_trash
Gold Member
USA
603 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2007 : 16:04:37
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thanks for the advice and suggestions, ChristoMephisto and Dr. Bob!  it sounds like I'd benefit from auditing one of Dr. Bob's classes (but that 8,000 mile commute each way... yech)! if I have time, I'm going to work on a few pedals tonight....
and nosi0, a fried cap is easy to diagnose when it's part of a guitar's tone control (plug in and listen); I'm not sure how to determine it otherwise, though.
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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2007 : 21:31:39
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quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Bob
If you have been damaging the caps used on the tone contol pot, in a guitar cavity,
you have been applying TOO MUCH HEAT or for TOO LONG
That's exactly what I did a while back.
I rewired my guitar and wondered why it was hardly putting out any signal. I was using a 40W iron, good in short bursts but I assume lethal to components if left in contact for too long.
I now have a 25W iron and a far better small oval tip. I wasn't half getting through that desoldering braid, is there a cheaper alternative, it's expensive here? I thought perhaps old stranded wire with the strands untwined a little. I have 2 BYOC pedals to do, but will be practicing before attempting them, I have a habit of learning from costly mistakes 
Edit>> I just re-read Dr Bob's comment and saw his recommendation for good quality braid, I probably shouldn't be trying to find a cheap route if I want to do the job well. I have a solder sucker but haven't tried it yet, that's another option. |
Edited by - guirat on 05/25/2007 21:41:11 |
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bossFan
Bronze Member
Portugal
97 Posts |
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 14:38:01
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The type of soldering iron is not important, is what you can do with it that makes the difference between a good or bad soldering job.
The only thing that matters is STATIC. It can damage a circuit board(talking about those DIGITAl new boards)in the digital range of BOSS pedals.
So,keep those irons grounded(earth connection).. |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 16:59:48
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quote:
Originally posted by guirat
quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Bob
If you have been damaging the caps used on the tone control pot, in a guitar cavity,
you have been applying TOO MUCH HEAT or for TOO LONG
That's exactly what I did a while back.
I rewired my guitar and wondered why it was hardly putting out any signal. I was using a 40W iron, good in short bursts but I assume lethal to components if left in contact for too long.
I now have a 25W iron and a far better small oval tip. I wasn't half getting through that desoldering braid, is there a cheaper alternative, it's expensive here? I thought perhaps old stranded wire with the strands untwined a little. I have 2 BYOC pedals to do, but will be practicing before attempting them, I have a habit of learning from costly mistakes
Edit>> I just re-read Dr Bob's comment and saw his recommendation for good quality braid, I probably shouldn't be trying to find a cheap route if I want to do the job well. I have a solder sucker but haven't tried it yet, that's another option.
Hi guirat & Guys
The de-solder braid/wick is called
Soder-Wick ... from Chemtronics in the USA.
I have just added an amendment, which has more detail in it,
to my previous post, earlier in this thread.
I also agree with bossFan, about static & grounding.
I might suggest that if you are doing a lot of electronics & mod, even changing RAM or a Card in your PC's
The you get a anti static wrist strap, & if you can afford it, a small anti static mat to work on.
And make sure that you connect to a proper ground point.
The wrist strap, will have an integral 1 Meg ohm resistor somewhere in the lead that you connect to ground.
This allow for a slow electrostatic discharge curve-time, it also, protects you by placing you at least 1 Meg ohm or so above ground.
A fast discharge curve-time to ground, call also damage components.
Theory - theory - theory, sorry to bore you guys....
Regards Dr. Bob
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bossFan
Bronze Member
Portugal
97 Posts |
Posted - 06/02/2007 : 23:41:19
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Very well finished the "STATIC" subject,Dr.Bob.
BTW,the Chemtronics De-solder wick/braid works 90% well on Lead free Solder (RoHS). I use it every day on my job.
(The other 10% is for more heat)..
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 06/03/2007 : 03:36:03
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quote:
Originally posted by bossFan
Very well finished the "STATIC" subject,Dr.Bob.
BTW,the Chemtronics De-solder wick/braid works 90% well on Lead free Solder (RoHS). I use it every day on my job.
(The other 10% is for more heat)..
Hi bossFan
Thanks for the info, about using it, with lead free (RoHS) products.
We will be seting up a few lead free workstations in the following months.
I bought a S/Hand Behringer DD100 digital delay, (cheap) and it became my first (RoHS) pedal.
Please feel free to PM me, & tell me what kind of electronic equipment you work on, and in what field,
I'm interested in that kind of stuff.
More Heat? is that like More cowbell? 
If you haven't seen that clip on youtube, the joke won't make any sense.
Someone posted a link to it, here on the forum, a few months ago.
Regards Br. Bob |
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DarrinPA
Silver Member
USA
221 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2007 : 01:10:56
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Reading Dr Bob's post made me realize I've been solding incorrectly for years now. I've just always put the soldering iron on or near whatever then pushed the solder wire on the tip it until it was melted and then covered the componate with it, never pre-warming the area.  |
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What wattage solder pen for pedal repair?
