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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 17:03:33
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It just landed on my desk - won't get a chance to try it out for about...9 hours  I'm excited but a little disappointed at the same time...it's a bit more beat up than it looked in the pictures...and the res knob isn't original (good news here is it has been replaced with a BF-2 style knob that I just happened to need!)...it has the black MIJ label with the "use a coin" bullet point, but a plastic screw...but I can find no label anywhere to get a serial number/ date it ...is there another way - what should I be looking for inside to make sure I have a "real" PH-1r?
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Edited by - 4evrnewB on 02/08/2008 17:05:06 |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
   
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 17:14:10
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There should be a serial number label in the battery chamber Too bad the silver screw was swapped out for a plastic one |
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 17:23:13
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Yeah, there's no label anywhere So, you think it really had the silver screw originally? p.s. the "P" starts under the "e" in phaser |
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sp-1
Platinum Member
   
Germany
1454 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 17:40:35
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As far as I know they used the 'use a coin label' longer than the silverscrew, so there are blackscrews with that label. But I'm sure bossarea can help us out here. |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
   
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 17:40:40
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Then I'm guessing the bottom plate was switched at some point. Is there a stamped number way up under the lid, above the Boss logo. They started to place the labels inside from around '81-89. |
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 19:00:37
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No label or stamping anywhere. I'm guessing it had the paper label inside and it's long gone .
Anything I can tell from opening it up and looking at the board? |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
   
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 19:47:46
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Maybe the datecodes on the 4558DD JRC opamps inside. I don't know the code system, maybe someone else could help with the details. Mine are 3115, and my PH-1r dates May '83 |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
    
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 20:01:05
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There's a few things to have a look at. - Where is the hole that the battery lead comes out of? Early pedals had a hole at the front right of the battery cavity. Around serial 8500 this became a rectangular hole at the back of the cavity. About the time when 6 digit serial was introduced the hole became oval and around serial 100000 the hole was filled in and the lead was taken out next to the switch.
- Component numbers I opened up my own 082900 PH-1r. It has the long dash (P under S) and "use a coin" label. It has 3 NEC 4558 circuits in it. These are also stamped W13883 but I don't know if that's a date code or not. The transistors have 1C, 1D and 1E printed in tiny lettering in additon to their model number. From earlier discussions I think we've found that the number is the year 1 = 1981 and the letter is the month (A=January, B=February, ...). The serial number decoder dates my PH-1r to July 1981 with component production taking place 2-4 months earlier. |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
    
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 02/08/2008 : 20:03:49
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quote: Originally posted by ChristoMephisto
Maybe the datecodes on the 4558DD JRC opamps inside. I don't know the code system, maybe someone else could help with the details. Mine are 3115, and my PH-1r dates May '83
That's intersting. Somewhere between July-81 and May-83 they replaced the Nec opamps with JRCs. |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
    
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 03:24:20
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Hi 4evrnewB
Congrats on the PH-1r 
Post some pics when you can.
Regards Dr. Bob |
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 04:40:41
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Hi folks~
I have to play with it some more before I make a definitive statement as to the sound, but it's going well...here's some additional info:
Board markings: 2291031300 ET5213-510A Op Amps: 4558DD JRC 3508
Transistors all maked with a 3, i.e. 3F, 3G, 3I..
So, I'm thinking maybe August 1983?
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 04:56:24
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Remember that RES knob I told you about? The BF-2 style one which was going to be great because I just happen to need one for my BF-2?
The fucking idiot glued it on!! 
Ok, sorry - just a little pissed right now!!!
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
    
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 05:34:24
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Hi 4evrnewB
Remove the other knobs. It might be just a very tight fit.
If it's really glued on, warm it up with a hair dryer - NOT A HEAT GUN - Heat will soften or break the bond on a lot of glues.
If it's Silicone, a few drops of Methylated Spirits (white Spirits) will often loosen it up a bit. but let it sit for a bit before trying to budge it.
It might be glues on - because the tab on the shaft of the Pot was broken off or stripped.
Good luck Regards Dr. Bob |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 02/09/2008 16:27:53 |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
    
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 09:27:56
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quote: Originally posted by 4evrnewB
Hi folks~
I have to play with it some more before I make a definitive statement as to the sound, but it's going well...here's some additional info:
Board markings: 2291031300 ET5213-510A Op Amps: 4558DD JRC 3508
Transistors all maked with a 3, i.e. 3F, 3G, 3I..
So, I'm thinking maybe August 1983?
I think you're very close. 3I would be September 83 so I reckon Nov-83 would be a good guess. |
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/09/2008 : 15:48:06
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Thanks, Dr. Bob. Perhaps that will help me remove the knob from the shaft - now that I have succeeded in pulling it out of the pot! (Contact cement was used). So....can someone tell me what pot to buy to replace the RES pot?  Thanks... |
Edited by - 4evrnewB on 02/10/2008 16:43:10 |
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4evrnewB
Silver Member
 
Canada
322 Posts |
Posted - 02/11/2008 : 04:05:57
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Update: Thanks to all for their help. Dr. Bob, I did try the heat trick with the knob (with the now-disengaged-from-the-pot shaft still in it). It worked like a charm and I was able to salvage the knob for my BF-2.  Christo - thanks for twisting and shouting out the pot value - now I just need to find a place to buy one. I was also able to get a proper RES knob off an old OC-2 so my PH-1r will look more like itself! 
I'll post pix when I have her fixed up! |
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