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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  17:03:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It just landed on my desk - won't get a chance to try it out for about...9 hours
I'm excited but a little disappointed at the same time...it's a bit more beat up than it looked in the pictures...and the res knob isn't original (good news here is it has been replaced with a BF-2 style knob that I just happened to need!)...it has the black MIJ label with the "use a coin" bullet point, but a plastic screw...but I can find no label anywhere to get a serial number/ date it ...is there another way - what should I be looking for inside to make sure I have a "real" PH-1r?

Edited by - 4evrnewB on 02/08/2008 17:05:06

ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  17:14:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
There should be a serial number label in the battery chamber
Too bad the silver screw was swapped out for a plastic one
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  17:23:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah, there's no label anywhere So, you think it really had the silver screw originally?
p.s. the "P" starts under the "e" in phaser
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sp-1
Platinum Member

Germany
1454 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  17:40:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
As far as I know they used the 'use a coin label' longer than the silverscrew, so there are blackscrews with that label.
But I'm sure bossarea can help us out here.
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  17:40:40  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Then I'm guessing the bottom plate was switched at some point.
Is there a stamped number way up under the lid, above the Boss logo.
They started to place the labels inside from around '81-89.
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  19:00:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No label or stamping anywhere. I'm guessing it had the paper label inside and it's long gone .

Anything I can tell from opening it up and looking at the board?
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  19:47:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe the datecodes on the 4558DD JRC opamps inside.
I don't know the code system, maybe someone else could help with the details. Mine are 3115, and my PH-1r dates May '83
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bossarea
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
3652 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  20:01:05  Show Profile  Visit bossarea's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There's a few things to have a look at.
- Where is the hole that the battery lead comes out of?
Early pedals had a hole at the front right of the battery cavity. Around serial 8500 this became a rectangular hole at the back of the cavity. About the time when 6 digit serial was introduced the hole became oval and around serial 100000 the hole was filled in and the lead was taken out next to the switch.

- Component numbers
I opened up my own 082900 PH-1r. It has the long dash (P under S) and "use a coin" label. It has 3 NEC 4558 circuits in it. These are also stamped W13883 but I don't know if that's a date code or not.
The transistors have 1C, 1D and 1E printed in tiny lettering in additon to their model number. From earlier discussions I think we've found that the number is the year 1 = 1981 and the letter is the month (A=January, B=February, ...).
The serial number decoder dates my PH-1r to July 1981 with component production taking place 2-4 months earlier.
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bossarea
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
3652 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2008 :  20:03:49  Show Profile  Visit bossarea's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ChristoMephisto

Maybe the datecodes on the 4558DD JRC opamps inside.
I don't know the code system, maybe someone else could help with the details. Mine are 3115, and my PH-1r dates May '83

That's intersting. Somewhere between July-81 and May-83 they replaced the Nec opamps with JRCs.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  03:24:20  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi 4evrnewB

Congrats on the PH-1r

Post some pics when you can.

Regards Dr. Bob
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  04:40:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi folks~

I have to play with it some more before I make a definitive statement as to the sound, but it's going well...here's some additional info:

Board markings:
2291031300
ET5213-510A
Op Amps:
4558DD
JRC
3508

Transistors all maked with a 3, i.e. 3F, 3G, 3I..

So, I'm thinking maybe August 1983?
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  04:56:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Remember that RES knob I told you about? The BF-2 style one which was going to be great because I just happen to need one for my BF-2?

The fucking idiot glued it on!!

Ok, sorry - just a little pissed right now!!!

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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  05:34:24  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi 4evrnewB

Remove the other knobs.
It might be just a very tight fit.

If it's really glued on, warm it up with a hair dryer - NOT A HEAT GUN -
Heat will soften or break the bond on a lot of glues.

If it's Silicone, a few drops of Methylated Spirits (white Spirits) will often loosen it up a bit. but let it sit for a bit before trying to budge it.

It might be glues on - because the tab on the shaft of the Pot was broken off or stripped.

Good luck
Regards Dr. Bob

Edited by - Dr. Bob on 02/09/2008 16:27:53
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bossarea
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
3652 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  09:27:56  Show Profile  Visit bossarea's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 4evrnewB

Hi folks~

I have to play with it some more before I make a definitive statement as to the sound, but it's going well...here's some additional info:

Board markings:
2291031300
ET5213-510A
Op Amps:
4558DD
JRC
3508

Transistors all maked with a 3, i.e. 3F, 3G, 3I..

So, I'm thinking maybe August 1983?


I think you're very close. 3I would be September 83 so I reckon Nov-83 would be a good guess.
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/09/2008 :  15:48:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Dr. Bob. Perhaps that will help me remove the knob from the shaft - now that I have succeeded in pulling it out of the pot! (Contact cement was used).
So....can someone tell me what pot to buy to replace the RES pot?
Thanks...

Edited by - 4evrnewB on 02/10/2008 16:43:10
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4evrnewB
Silver Member

Canada
322 Posts

Posted - 02/11/2008 :  04:05:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Update: Thanks to all for their help. Dr. Bob, I did try the heat trick with the knob (with the now-disengaged-from-the-pot shaft still in it). It worked like a charm and I was able to salvage the knob for my BF-2.
Christo - thanks for twisting and shouting out the pot value - now I just need to find a place to buy one. I was also able to get a proper RES knob off an old OC-2 so my PH-1r will look more like itself!

I'll post pix when I have her fixed up!
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