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Mesjoggah
Gold Member
Netherlands
595 Posts |
 Posted - 12/02/2008 : 14:23:22
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| Since i've got a spare CS-3 i am looking to mod it, who has a link to one? |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2008 : 14:28:43
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Good CS-3 mods are hard to find...
An important consideration is which chip-set you have. What is your VCA? (dBx or THAT) and what op-amps are in it? Is it MIJ or MIT? |
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Mesjoggah
Gold Member
Netherlands
595 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2008 : 15:00:42
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It's MIT and it has vca DBX 1252 in it, op-amps are m5218l (2x) and BA718.
Till my surprise this one has a 6 digit made in taiwan label under the treadle, haven't seen that yet! (at least not in my collection) |
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Dirk
Platinum Member
Netherlands
1309 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2008 : 17:00:41
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I can recommend the Monte Allums opto mod.
That's quite good, my pedal has a real tubelike feel now. 
One thing I added to the mod is to change D6 to Germanium (1N34A), which adds to the tubefeel.
Oh, and you got to install a yellow LED for added mojo 
Question is, what do you want to achieve with it? |
Edited by - Dirk on 12/02/2008 17:03:57 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2008 : 17:30:29
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quote:
Originally posted by Mesjoggah
It's MIT and it has vca DBX 1252 in it, op-amps are m5218l (2x) and BA718.
Till my surprise this one has a 6 digit made in taiwan label under the treadle, haven't seen that yet! (at least not in my collection)
This is one of the "good" ones. It seems unlikely to me that any mods will improve it substantially...
I have one of these exactly (with the 6 digit made in taiwan label under the treadle) and it sounds the best of the 5 of CS-3s with various chip-sets I've heard first-hand, including my late model THAT chipset one with a Monte Allums mod.
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Edited by - Laurie on 12/02/2008 17:32:15 |
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Mesjoggah
Gold Member
Netherlands
595 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2008 : 10:01:49
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quote:
Originally posted by Dirk
I can recommend the Monte Allums opto mod.
That's quite good, my pedal has a real tubelike feel now.
One thing I added to the mod is to change D6 to Germanium (1N34A), which adds to the tubefeel.
Oh, and you got to install a yellow LED for added mojo
Question is, what do you want to achieve with it?
Actually i just wanted to mod something... but it would be nice if the hiss would go when turning the sustain knob past 10'o clock. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
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Von
Copper Member
Australia
26 Posts |
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zerksies
Double Platinum Member
USA
3406 Posts |
Posted - 12/05/2008 : 00:02:22
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quote:
Originally posted by Dirk
I can recommend the Monte Allums opto mod.
That's quite good, my pedal has a real tubelike feel now.
One thing I added to the mod is to change D6 to Germanium (1N34A), which adds to the tubefeel.
Oh, and you got to install a yellow LED for added mojo
Question is, what do you want to achieve with it?
i second that it is a great mod it makes the pedal sound way better then stock |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/05/2008 : 00:33:36
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There was some discussion in another thread about what chipset the Monte Allums mod was designed for - from my experience, it doesn't work that well with a late production MIT/THAT pedal.
The early production MIT and MIJ pedals with dBx chipsets are completely different animals to the MIT/THAT. It is quite possible that the Monte Allums mod was designed for the dBx chipset and will make it sound even better... If you try it and it works, please let us know!
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Mesjoggah
Gold Member
Netherlands
595 Posts |
Posted - 12/24/2008 : 17:00:22
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| I did the Indyguitarist mod and i am pleased with the result, it has an overall more 'richer' sound. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/24/2008 : 17:09:36
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| Thanks for the info! |
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jfromel
Copper Member
USA
11 Posts |
Posted - 12/29/2008 : 10:42:07
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This is what I did with my CS-3, it's very happy now. All 1u caps are film, in fact all the caps are film except C5 which is Mica. C1 in this list refers to C1 on the board attached to all the pots.
D10 JUMP w/R32
C2 47n
R32 JUMP w/D10
C17 1U
D2 1n34A
D3 1n34A
C14 1U
C15 1U
C4 1U
R5 3.24K
C5 430P
C6 1U
C7 10n
C1 100n
C9 10n
D6 1n34A
C10 47n
C15 10n
C16 47n
C18 10n
R36 3.24k
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cctsim
Silver Member
United Kingdom
418 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2008 : 04:43:04
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Just a minor suggestion: C10, C16, and C18 are part of the on/off flip flop and do not affect the sound in any way, so it is a bit pointless upgrading these caps.
Even worse, by increasing C18 you decrease the response time of the switch.
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Mesjoggah
Gold Member
Netherlands
595 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2008 : 06:32:03
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This is what i did:
R36 - 100 ohm
C2 - .1 uf
C1 - .22 uf
C13 - 2uf/2.2uf film
R5 - 470 ohm
R32 - jumper
D10 - jumper
C4 - 1 uf film
C14 - 1 uf film
C17 - 1 uf film
C6 - 1 uf film |
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ElfegoBaca
Copper Member
USA
20 Posts |
Posted - 01/01/2009 : 07:51:31
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Hey Mesjoggah!
Hello! I'm interested in seeing what I can do to improve the response of my MIT CS-3 as well, this particular pedal project has been the least rewarding of my pedal mods: haven't had any noteworthy gains in my recent attempts. There are some new differences in your approach that I would like to experiment with, and ask you about, particularly the C1 change from 100uf to .22uf. This is the main board not the pot board, right? Still a 16v NP electrolytic? Any help is mucho apreciado! Thanks! |
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Topic |
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looking for a CS-3 mod
