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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
 Posted - 08/29/2006 : 05:26:42
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I was telling you about that DS-1 I recently got over in the other thread.
Well, it arrived today -- and not only is it long dash with a silver screw... it has a skeleton switch. 
It has an inked serial number of 7600.
What have I stumbled across?
edit: apparently member "fompsweeva" from Australia has me beat -- his is from June 1978, mine from November.
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Edited by - stahlhart on 08/29/2006 05:52:59 |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 05:38:47
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Other interesting things to note:
-- three of the four screws holding the bottom plate on have black internal tooth lockwashers on them. I've never seen these on a Boss pedal before
-- the insulation for the bottom plate is fish paper, not clear plastic
-- the circuit board is not green-coated on the trace side, just bare solder traces on phenolic
-- both the violet and the black wire are soldered to one lug on the switch... this must have been the reason that the seller said he could not get the footswitch to operate -- mabye a previous owner shorted the wires together because of a circuit problem (guess I get to find out by troubleshooting)
edit: could this have something to do with that old "blinking LED" switch setup -- circumventing it?
Should I post photos?
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Edited by - stahlhart on 08/29/2006 05:58:21 |
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Goran
Double Platinum Member
Sweden
2203 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 07:42:29
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I have a SP-1 with the same serial, 7600. It too has three screws with washers, the last screw has no washer.
It also has the brown paper and phenolitic board. Skeleton switch too.
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 07:55:50
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Hey stahlhart - thanks for the posts! mine is a little wierd too, has a WHITE CARD insulator between circuit board and bottom plate, bottom plate has a small foam patch about 1inch by 3/4 inch ... uh,black switch.
but skeleton switch on yours and 1978 WOW! |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 11:31:43
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Congrats, great find. 
What's the number on the PCB? After changing to permanent LED, the PCB became ET-28E. The earlier ones usually had ET-28C or D. I'm still wondering if there's any A or Bs out there.
I've seen 2 wires going to one side of the switch on other pedals. One lug is grounded and that's possibly why. |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 14:23:24
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The board is marked
DS-1
52-295C
on the trace side (the lettering is part of the copper pattern and is wave soldered). No printing at all on the component side...
(edit: this one has the foam pad stuck to the board like starr36 mentioned also)
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Edited by - stahlhart on 08/29/2006 14:25:03 |
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Sunburst
Silver Member
427 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 14:27:38
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| Sounds like you got a real early one. The earliest pedals probably up to #7XXX serials have the paper insulation. Good find and congrats! |
Edited by - Sunburst on 08/29/2006 14:30:17 |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 14:36:45
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Absolutely dumb luck, too: the photo in the auction was blurry with a reflection on the pedal -- I could make out that it had a long dash, and that was it (the description from the auction more or less stated that it was a DS-1 and that it had a problem with the footswitch, and that was about it). Was not expecting this at all.
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Basstyra
Gold Member
France
523 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 14:47:46
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Grr... You lucky bastard... 
My older Boss is a May 79 NF-1. But NF-1 isn't fun, there is no way to get some crazy sounds out of it !! 
Anyway, congrats, it's a nice catch ! |
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kAz
Copper Member
USA
8 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 15:18:05
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I just got a silver screw DS-1 with serial 0000(Nov 80) yesterday.
Does your pedal have a tiny ACA battery sticker where you plug the adapter? Mine doesn't have it. Besides, it looks like it's repainted or something. But I can't see any diffefence in color all over the pedal. And my pedal has a rough texture under the paint.
Are the early MIJ pedals like this? or is it just mine? |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 15:25:55
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There's no sticker on mine. I suppose that it's possible that it could have originally been there and was removed at some point, though.
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Basstyra
Gold Member
France
523 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 15:33:27
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| Those ACA/PSA stickers are easy to remove, yep. |
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 16:43:06
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no aca sticker on mine
yes, kaz, mine also looks like it was hand painted, but, was not cause there was small overspray in the underneath the battery chamber because there are two large holes in the battery box when the case was cast.
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 16:45:14
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quote:
Originally posted by stahlhart
Other interesting things to noteedit: could this have something to do with that old "blinking LED" switch setup -- circumventing it?
Should I post photos?
here is the link to the DS-1 circuit from 1980 that shows how to do the LED mod, so you can check your cicuit against this one!
http://www.godiksennet.com/default.asp?main=Schematics |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 17:20:25
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Thanks much, John!
In looking at the switch, there's traces of soldering on the open lug, so someone has been in here before -- my guess right now, not having fired it up yet (didn't have time to last night) is that it's a blinker, and someone deliberately wired it to be permanently on, and when I put that violet wire back where it belongs everything is going to return to normal. We'll see.
It needs a new grommet for the screw also. I think that I need to run to Home Depot for some other things anyway. 
I may just leave the LED setup original, since when I do get around to building a pedalboard I'm going to have everything remotely switched anyway, so the visual indicator really won't be all that critical for me. And I've never had or even seen one of the original pedals with the blinking LED before, so this is going to be an interesting curiosity for a while. But, as a knowledge exercise, I'll probably run though the mods at least once, just to note the differences firsthand.
I'll take some pictures of the DS-1 and post links to them here, probably over the weekend sometime.
Thanks to everyone here for the responses...
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 08/29/2006 : 17:59:41
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Something I just noticed...
Take a look at the DS-1 schematic at GodiksenNet -- follow the wiring from the switching flip-flop to the signal path.
There's two switching FETs -- one early in the signal path and one towards the end, not just one towards the end (i.e. CE-2, BF-2, DM-2, CS-1 etc.). It's not really true bypass, but it sort of hints at it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the tonal differences between the MIJ DS-1 and the MIT?
The GE-7 uses two FETs, but here it's toggling the output between the wet and the dry signal paths, not cutting the wet path in two places as in the case of the DS-1.
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Need Collector's Help! (DS-1)
