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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
 Posted - 10/08/2006 : 05:44:10
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does anyone have?
in a flurry of buying on eBay, yes, I got a PH-1r cheap, but it clicks when I press pedal to turn effect on or off. and well, its annoying. (Seller of course said "it worked perfectly")
I would like to fix it.
OR if anyone else has any ideas about how to fix a click in the FET switching circuit, I'd take their advice too. |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 10/09/2006 : 04:00:38
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My first hunch would be a capacitor discharging into the signal path when it normally shouldn't...
/longs for a PH-1r schematic also
//just for reference
///mine seems to be working okay
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2006 : 00:53:43
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| is the FET switching circuit the same on the MIJ early pedals? Maybe I can debug it from the DS-1 circuit???? |
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lightburst
Silver Member
Germany
158 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2006 : 10:23:45
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| The switching circuit should be the same. I only have a schematic of the PH-1 wich I can send to you via email. |
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/12/2006 : 15:33:43
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quote:
Originally posted by lightburst
The switching circuit should be the same. I only have a schematic of the PH-1 wich I can send to you via email.
Thank-you lightburst for your offer of help. I will figure out how to get my emailaddress to you etc. no time now. |
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/17/2006 : 23:03:54
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I gotta chance to speak to a tech guy who runs his own rep shop behind a big music chain store. He had a goldmine of vintage stuff (mutrons etc) and he suggested that because the click is likely a high freq leak, resulting from a SHORTED CAPACITOR that does NOT get a chance to filter out the engagment/disengagement of the effect path. NICE SUGGESTION UP THERE STAHLHART!!!!
of course, i have yet to even take the four screws off the back of the subject pedal. |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 10/18/2006 : 00:14:03
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I think that the same sort of trouble occurs when someone has a non-true bypass pedal, and attempts to make it true bypass by only replacing the SPDT switch with the DPDT one -- usually there's some sort of means for capacitive discharge in the original design that gets defeated when you wire it up such that the effect circuit gets completely inserted/removed into/from the signal path on both ends (as opposed to having it continue to hang on either the input or output side, even if the audio is not passing through it... the "tone suck" arrangement).
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 10/18/2006 : 00:19:25
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Usually capacitors near the input or output ends of the circuit are for DC blocking -- audio passes into and out of the pedal, but the circuit voltage stays inside.
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/28/2006 : 05:51:31
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quote:
Originally posted by lightburst
The switching circuit should be the same. I only have a schematic of the PH-1 wich I can send to you via email.
Hey, I wanted to publicly thank-you for getting the schematic to me. I have not had a chance to look inside the pedal yet, but I'm sure that it will be of some assistance. thank-you again. that's cool. |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 10/28/2006 : 05:55:41
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| Just to jack the thread, does BOSS repair older pedals say out of warranty & is their labor even worth it for us? |
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2006 : 22:57:47
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quote:
Originally posted by DeFrag
Just to jack the thread, does BOSS repair older pedals say out of warranty & is their labor even worth it for us?
I think you are likely better off going to a local dealer and finding out who is the local (or area) authorized repair shops. Try NOT go go through a music store as they just "send it out" and charge extra to cover their involvment. Fellow I talked to above said its ususally only 1 hour to fix a broken pedal (unless totally shot) and s/b around $50/$60. |
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PH-1r service notes / schematic
