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controlfreak
Silver Member
Ireland
337 Posts |
 Posted - 05/28/2007 : 13:01:42
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hey guys, was thinkin bout picking up a TR-2 and i've been reading up about them a bit.
the C4 mod seems to be held in great esteem by some and others say there's not much difference.
what do ye think about the mod and is it better to desolder/short circuit or simply snip the C4?
i also heard that the TR-2 circuitry has been changed. is this new circuit missing C4 and when did the change occur? |
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StratoSphere
Double Platinum Member
Canada
2232 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2007 : 13:36:03
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DEFINATELY unsolder it. just in case you happen to resell it, you can replace it, or even if you dont like the new sound for some reason.
i heard the same thing about the C4 not even being there anymore. |
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FRANZONI
Double Platinum Member
Ireland
3543 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2007 : 21:23:24
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I bought a tr2 early last year(the same time as my second dd3) so i don't know when the change occured in the circuitry but i never noticed much of a volume drop when in use,i use mine in a loop off a ls2 so i have the loop volume on the pedal to compensate if needed but to be honest i never needed to boost it for the tr2,i've also used it between the guitar and amp and never noticed any big drop in volume......big time one of my favoutite boss pedals..... |
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controlfreak
Silver Member
Ireland
337 Posts |
Posted - 05/29/2007 : 09:54:40
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hey franzoni, sounds like you have one of the newer ones!
that's great that it sounds good, i can now go out and get one in confidence!! |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 05/29/2007 : 18:25:55
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| How can I tell if my TR-2 is of the right "age" that the C4 mod can be done? |
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stinkfoot
Silver Member
Sweden
181 Posts |
Posted - 05/30/2007 : 23:02:17
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quote:
Originally posted by controlfreak
the C4 mod seems to be held in great esteem by some and others say there's not much difference.
what do ye think about the mod and is it better to desolder/short circuit or simply snip the C4?
I tried it, and it didn't make a lick of difference to me. i didn't try any harder/choppier settings, though - that might reveal more of a change.
Don't short circuit the component - either desolder it (preferred, as you can put it back again) or clip it. You can even lift just one end of the cap, if you like.
quote:
i also heard that the TR-2 circuitry has been changed. is this new circuit missing C4 and when did the change occur?
I have a brand new TR-2 in the workshop right now - I'll report back when I've opened it up.
/Andreas |
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stinkfoot
Silver Member
Sweden
181 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 22:55:40
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It's been a while, but finally I got round to opening the TR-2. There has definitely been a change in the circuit board layout - I don't have all my pcb pics on hand, so I can't map out the differences at the moment. But from the one pic I had of the (back of) earlier board, this one definitely is different. It doesn't look like a completely new circuit, though - it seems more like a layout redesign, with a number of new components thrown in. The core circuit seems more or less the same.
Both boards are labeled "70901390", but the new one has the letters "RO" added to the number. The new board is also marked "pb free", indicating the use of lead-free solder. I'd guess these changes was part of the RoHS-certification of the TR-2 (and the component changes was needed because they weren't RoHS-compatible). C4 is still there, though. C26 and C28 are left unpopulated, which is a bit strange as they weren't even present in the older circuit...
/Andreas |
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stinkfoot
Silver Member
Sweden
181 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 23:36:22
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After a second look, I realize that one section that has changed is the area around R9. Lowering its value used to be the easiest way to overcome the volume drop, but now I'm not 100% sure how that works with the new circuit. Until I can investigate this more, or find a schematic for the "RO" version, I'd raise R12 instead, to get more gain from the circuit.
/Andreas |
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stinkfoot
Silver Member
Sweden
181 Posts |
Posted - 08/15/2007 : 16:44:14
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Back again... having tried the "new" (RoHS-certified) version in stock form, it seems apparent that Boss has listened to players' opinions. The new one doesn't have the apparent volume drop the old one had, and should therefore not need any mods to correct that issue.
Testing the new pedal with the rate and depth knobs fully off reveals a slight boost to the signal, whereas the old version were at unity gain with that setting. With the knobs turned up to normal tremolo settings, the old one lost a little signal, while the new one appears to be at unity gain.
/Andreas |
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Caliban
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
145 Posts |
Posted - 08/15/2007 : 20:53:43
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| That's good news. Any idea how to identify the new circuit stock from old models without opening it up? I'm in the market for a tremolo pedal... |
Edited by - Caliban on 08/15/2007 20:57:31 |
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FRANZONI
Double Platinum Member
Ireland
3543 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2007 : 00:02:39
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| i think the roHS models have a small sticker inside the battery compartment to show their complient with the new law governing lead free solder...if the tr2 your looking at has a box it should be on this as well..... happy hunting and i think the tr2 is a great pedal it's on my pedalboard fulltime and really comes in useful for something a little different now and again..... |
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stinkfoot
Silver Member
Sweden
181 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2007 : 15:37:31
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I didn't see any stickers in the battery compartments of the two RoHS Boss pedals I currently have on my bench. There's a green triangular sticker with the letter "R" on the box, though, which might be a visual clue.
Of course, with the TR-2, all you need do to determine which is which is to turn it on with the knobs fully off. If it has a slight boost, it's one of the new ones.
/Andreas |
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Topic |
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TR-2 C4 mod - opinions?
