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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
 Posted - 03/20/2007 : 00:04:17
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Is there such a thing as a 240V to 220V step-down transformer (convertor, regulator etc), or is it safe to assume a 220V appliance will work fine on a 240V supply?
I've bought a rack effect from Europe that is designed for the European 220V system (Holland, France, Germany). It will be used in the UK.
The UK 240V system is, I believe, also known as 220-240V, but there is always the possibility of the 20V overvoltage. Both European and UK supplies are 50Hz.
Will it be within tolerance (and I can stop worrying), should I contact the manufacturer (Dynacord, now owned by ElectroVoice I believe), or should I play it safe and get a transformer (if such a thing exists)? Also, I think the powercord has no earth - potential problem? I have some UK adaptors that only have a plastic earth pin, but this device will be 220V, and I will be plugging a guitar straight into it. Almost fried myself many years ago, don't fancy taking my chances again.
If anyone has previous similar experience or knowledge it would be very much appreciated,
Thanks.
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Basstyra
Gold Member
France
523 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2007 : 00:08:43
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| Don't worry. In France, it's 230v in fact. 10 or 20 volts won't do the difference, there. |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2007 : 00:12:33
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There should be no worries plugging it in directly.
When I started building valve amps a couple of years back I was afraid that some transformers I bought would give me the wrong output voltage. When researching what to do I found out that the UK as well as all other EU countries now operate on 230V/50Hz. This change happened as far back as 1993 IIRC. I don't think Britain or any other country actually did anything to implement this. The voltage supplied is +/- quite a large percentage so it was more an agreement to call it 230 instead of changing the voltage. |
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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2007 : 00:24:36
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Thanks very much for the replies,
I've only seen pics of the unit so far and it says 220V on the rear, but perhaps when I receive it the manual may mention 220V-240V, it is old though, early to mid 80's I think.
I didn't have any luck googling a suitable convertor, the only ones I see are 110/120 to 220/240, so this suggests there will usually (hopefully always) be a tolerance band.
As I don't hear of French or German musicians being zapped regularly I assume the lack of earth lead is not too much of a problem either, though I'd better be sure I get Live & Neutral correct when I change the plug 
Edit>> then again I have read that it is interchangeable on the Continent. If I'm in doubt I'll seek out advice before doing any wiring.
Thanks.
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Edited by - guirat on 03/20/2007 00:27:53 |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2007 : 07:57:52
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Hi guirat & guys
If you are really concerned, there is a way to wire a 240VAC transformer
so that the secondary voltage is subtracted from the 240VAC primary.
So if the secondary was say 15 - 18 or 20 volts, then this would be subtracted from the 240VAC giving you approx 225VAC - 222VAC and 220VAC respectively.
The secondary is wired out of phase with the primary, & is electrically subtracted.
We used to do this when I worked for Motorola Aust. we had some HP power meters that were way to bloody critical (thanks to HP cost cutting) - where most 220VAC stuff runs fine from 240VAC.
You would have to build it, & put it into a suitably safe enclosure - case.
Regards Dr. Bob  |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 03/20/2007 07:58:35 |
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Dirk
Platinum Member
Netherlands
1309 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2007 : 16:50:11
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Don't worry, most equipment will handle up to 250 volts anyway.
Here in Holland it's also upgraded from 220 to 230 volts a couple of years ago and nothing has been damaged so far.
I think you'll be safe within tolerance. |
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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
Posted - 03/21/2007 : 01:53:09
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Cheers Dirk and Dr Bob,
From what everyone has said I will do a little research on the plug change, read the manual when it arrives then just try it out on 240V if there are no glaring warning signs.
Creating a secondary for the transformer is a good idea, though maybe not an easy starter project for someone like me - I very much appreciate the information though. If a parcel saying 'Please Fix Me' turns up at your door Dr Bob you'll know what it is 
Hopefully all will work without a hitch. I will probably invest in another surge protector to use, I need one anyway. |
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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
Posted - 03/22/2007 : 20:46:23
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I'm happy to report it's working fine on 240V.
The power connector was the same as is used for PC's, so there was no mistaking which way up to insert the plug, it only goes in 1 way. |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2007 : 06:47:24
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quote:
Originally posted by guirat
I'm happy to report it's working fine on 240V.
The power connector was the same as is used for PC's, so there was no mistaking which way up to insert the plug, it only goes in 1 way.
Hi guirat
Now that you have it up and running, what does it sound like?
Regards Dr. Bob |
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guirat
Silver Member
United Kingdom
186 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2007 : 15:02:07
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Good question, I've just had very little time to experiment beyond checking it works, I'll try my best to explain what I've discovered so far.
It's a Dynacord CLS-222 'Compact Rotor System', 19" rack effect.
My ultimate goal is to combine several effects to approximate a Hammond organ sound with guitar. Other missing elements are an EHX POG (to buy at some point) and a tremolo pedal (currently building). The POG itself does an admirable job with an organ effect, I just have very particular sounds in mind, mainly overdriven Jon Lord/Keith Emerson tones.
What does it sound like on my current basic one-amp setup? Well, like a chorus pedal to be brutally frank, and a pricey way to get one, but I do not yet have the setup to hear it at its best. The unit does have a stereo headphone jack however, so I was able to hear the stereo rotor effect and it is very 3-dimensional. 2 amps (or a stereo PA) are required to get the physical seperation which really provides a good Leslie sound.
Because a guitar input is weak compared to a keyboard line input, it will also require a boost (valve pre-amp ideally, or some sort of pedal), as the unit volume/effect knobs currently have to be maxed to get a decent effect signal.
I've dismantled the footswitch for some repairs, but I did get a chance to try it out. The footswitch brings it to life, and is vital in allowing you to switch between slow and fast rotation. It's also how you get the 'speeding up' or slowing' down effect, by switching from fast to slow and vice-versa. There are switches to do this on the unit, but not practical in a playing situation.
There are other pedals that do a similar thing to this unit - the H&K Rotosphere, Danelectro Rocky Road, Korg G-4 and so on. The CLS-222 isn't the most practical choice for portability, but I hope when I finally create my setup I will appreciate the sound. I want to hear what it can really do, I'm just realising I still have a lot of upgrading to do in other areas before I reach that stage.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 04/06/2007 : 16:50:54
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Hi guys
I know that this thread is probably dead, but if anyone is still interested, in knowing how to subtract some voltage, or even boost some voltage, using a common transformer, please let me know.
This type of circuit is called "Bucking & Boosting"
I remembered how to do it, at about 3am while in a deep sleep.
And you guy might nit think, that I care about you... 
Regards Dr. Bob |
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Topic |
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Using 220V devices on UK 240V supply
