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gmreszel
Copper Member
USA
32 Posts |
 Posted - 06/08/2009 : 16:39:24
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This is a follow up to posts I've left about 'opinions on mods' and led brightness issues.
This weekend I played an outdoor gig with my latest setup which is all BOSS (sans the RMC).
I run the board into a Fender Bandmaster (clean tones) and modded Marshall 2203 (dirt). I have an a/b relay box that allows me to switch the two heads into the same cab so I only use one channel at the desk.
Here's some simplified initial perceptions:
Couldn't see the leds because of the sun (see the post dealing with the led issue here: http://www.bossarea.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7318&whichpage=2
The DS-1 isn't loud enough - with the level all the way up I can't get it to jump out past the clean the way I like. I like to be able to kick in the dirt and roll the guitar vol back to where it would clean up and match the level of just going straight into the Bandmaster - I do this so I can bring the guitar volume up to stand the solos proud; couldn't get that with this stock DS-1, so it didn't get used the rest of the night (I relied on the Marshall then for dirt which meant no verb or delay on any dirt sound which I sometimes like). The used, ebay acquired BD-2 didn't work properly. It was cutting out during tests at home (when you would touch the level knob). I thought a deoxit clean would solve it but the malady seems more physical, not oxidation - putting pressure on the level control side to side makes it cut in and out in volume (the pot is mounted tight and I've reflowed the pcb connections to no avail). Then of course live the demons take full advantage of Murphy's law and it kept jumping around in volume so it too never got used past the initial cursing. From what I could tell the SD-1 sounded great to boost my 2203 but the boost I use is a subtle gain one to just liquify the Marshall a bit (as it was also supposed to do to the DS-1 and BD-2). However as mentioned I had trouble discerning if it was on or not because of the lethal sun on the LED issue.
The CE-2 and CS-3 are excellent I can't see changing anything but making the LED's brighter.
Couldn't see the TU-2
The DD-6 and RV-5 sounded great - I've used them for years and I don't need a led to know when they're on.
So, it was a disappointing start for this board but a lot was circumstance. For sure the DS-1 will need some doctoring and I believe I'll try changing the level pot on the BD-2 (anyone know the Newark part # for this pot)?
And why the heck did BOSS make the level and tone on the DS-1 in the opposite config as the BD-2 and SD-1?
Anyhoo, comments appreciated, here's a pic of the board:
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Edited by - gmreszel on 06/08/2009 16:41:04 |
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archimedes
Silver Member
United Kingdom
191 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 17:01:07
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quote:
Originally posted by gmreszel
Couldn't see the TU-2
I have had the exact same problem, totally invisible and bloody useless, not so much a problem with the other pedals as I can generally hear or remember where they are but the tuner is a pain. Lucky I still have my 25 year old TU12 which will be travelling with me to all outdoor gigs! |
Edited by - archimedes on 06/08/2009 17:01:27 |
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gmreszel
Copper Member
USA
32 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 18:11:26
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quote:
I have had the exact same problem, totally invisible and bloody useless, not so much a problem with the other pedals as I can generally hear or remember where they are but the tuner is a pain. Lucky I still have my 25 year old TU12 which will be travelling with me to all outdoor gigs!
So I wonder if one can replace the 11 with super brights plus change the voltage to them so they're sun bright. The LED display would be another issue - there'd have to be a way to increase the bright there as well. |
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archimedes
Silver Member
United Kingdom
191 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 18:28:20
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quote:
Originally posted by gmreszel
So I wonder if one can replace the 11 with super brights plus change the voltage to them so they're sun bright. The LED display would be another issue - there'd have to be a way to increase the bright there as well.
I can't imagine any LEDs being that effective in bright sun but I did wonder about contructing a sort of small, matt black, 3 sided, vertical screen (3 bits of ply or something) around and to some degree above the display for such occasions. Maybe that and bright LEDs might do it
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Edited by - archimedes on 06/08/2009 18:29:07 |
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gmreszel
Copper Member
USA
32 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 19:13:43
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quote:
I can't imagine any LEDs being that effective in bright sun but I did wonder about contructing a sort of small, matt black, 3 sided, vertical screen (3 bits of ply or something) around and to some degree above the display for such occasions. Maybe that and bright LEDs might do it
That or Dr. Bob's postit note remedy (from the dim LED thread) also might work  |
Edited by - gmreszel on 06/08/2009 19:14:50 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
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gmreszel
Copper Member
USA
32 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 22:47:07
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quote:
Originally posted by Laurie
I bought a lot of 500 off 3mm super-bright white LEDS from these guys: http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/PARTSPIPE__W0QQ_armrsZ1
They work superbly and fit straight in where the standard one goes.
Wow - a nickel a piece - I don't need that many but that's a heck of a price! Thank you Laurie for the reference.  |
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Scarymonsta
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
90 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 18:11:17
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The differences in "volume pot at max" on the SD-1, DS-1, MT-2, BD-2 and DN-2 I own are huge.
The SD-1 and DS-1 at full crank have roughly the same volume with the volume pot up full. Switch to the BD-2 or DN-2 wtih pot up full and the volume jump is MASSIVE. The MT-2 sits somewhere inbetween. It is a real shame. There is little that can be done in terms of the usual R/C/diode mods to change this to match the level of the BD-2, some slight increase is possible, but nothing to touch the BD-2. I have just bought another SD-1 in order to do some true A/B mod tests. I think the only way to increase the volume is to add another clean x2 gain single op-amp stage into the circuit (before the volume pot) with a high quality op-amp, which I am going to try.
For interest (after reading other mod opinion thread) I have just swapped the JRC4558DD in one of the SD-1s for the BB OPA2134.
Switching between the modded and unmodded pedals I can't hear any real noticable difference. Even the background noise levels seem pretty similar. More mods and A/B trials to come, I'll post my findings here !! |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 18:14:50
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quote:
Originally posted by Scarymonsta
I have just swapped the JRC4558DD in one of the SD-1s for the BB OPA2134.
Switching between the modded and unmodded pedals I can't hear any real noticable difference. Even the background noise levels seem pretty similar.
Interesting... I tried the BB chip in my love-pedal modded SD-1 and it was terrible. Really rough and scratchy compared to the 4558. |
Edited by - Laurie on 06/10/2009 18:15:14 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 18:22:22
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quote:
Originally posted by Scarymonsta
There is little that can be done in terms of the usual R/C/diode mods to change this to match the level of the BD-2, some slight increase is possible, but nothing to touch the BD-2. I have just bought another SD-1 in order to do some true A/B mod tests. I think the only way to increase the volume is to add another clean x2 gain single op-amp stage into the circuit (before the volume pot) with a high quality op-amp, which I am going to try.
I may be missing something... but increasing the negative feedback resistor value (and reducing the parallel cap) on the output opamp will boost the volume on an SD-1. |
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Scarymonsta
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
90 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 19:51:04
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Hi Laurie
Are we talking R9 and C6 ??
The op-amp tone difference is a fascinating one - a friend had had a CE-2 modded with a 2134 and he got me to swap it back to a 4558 for the same reason - too much hf etc.
Incidently I might not be testing with the best set up (I am sure these things sound better through tubes) but I am using a Les Paul Standard going into an old solid state rack Marshall pre-amp, then into a homemade 15W ish rack power amp (based on a TDA2030) then into a 1960A 4x12.
Both the SD-1s have R31 and D3 supplied from factory linked out (I know some mods recommend shorting these out)
chris |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 20:20:30
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quote:
Originally posted by Scarymonsta
Are we talking R9 and C6 ??
Yep. Ditch C6 and increase R9 to 47k or 100k. Should give you massive level out. It will make the tone control go strange, so you will have to muck around with the tone pot and C5/R8. But it should be possible to get more level and make the tone sound OK with some fiddling. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 20:30:01
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quote:
Originally posted by Scarymonsta
Both the SD-1s have R31 and D3 supplied from factory linked out (I know some mods recommend shorting these out)
This is the standard "PSA mod". It's completely standard and the factory actually jumpered those components in some boards - just don't use an ACA adapter to power the pedal after the mod is done |
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Scarymonsta
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
90 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2009 : 21:16:10
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I MUST HAVE BEEN HAVING ONE OF THOSE DAYS WHEN I LOOKED AT THIS B4 !!!
Yes the output does increase when you model it to about twice its original value with the tone pot completely one way, but has very little effect on volume when the tone pot is totally the other way. This is backed up by the 100k I've just stuck in R9. (C6 left in at the moment). Tone wise it just sounds a bit muddier than the stock model. |
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The all Boss pedal weekend
