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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
 Posted - 12/09/2008 : 04:27:36
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SSIA
If anyone has an extra cable that I can use to power multiple pedals from my LS-2, let me know.
Doesn't really matter if it's Boss brand, as long as it is the equivalent or better
It's getting to the point where I have to keep frequenting the Dollar Store to buy 9-volts in order to keep my habit going.
So if you've got one sitting around, keep me posted.
-- Disco Stu |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2008 : 04:58:13
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quote:
Originally posted by Disco Stu
SSIA
If anyone has an extra cable that I can use to power multiple pedals from my LS-2, let me know.
Doesn't really matter if it's Boss brand, as long as it is the equivalent or better
It's getting to the point where I have to keep frequenting the Dollar Store to buy 9-volts in order to keep my habit going.
So if you've got one sitting around, keep me posted.
-- Disco Stu
You handy with a soldering iron Disco Stu? Some 2.1mm plugs and some light duty speaker cable works a treat... |
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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2008 : 07:18:49
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^^^
I've got the skills and tools to solder wire to terminals, but really nothing more delicate. I suppose I can get by with 60/40 or 50/50 solder and an iota of plumbers' flux for copper wire to steel or brass terminals.
But, where do I acquire 2.1 mm plugs cheaply enough to justify building the wire rather than buying one? They can't possibly be more than five or six bucks prebuilt(?!)
Certainly willing to try it out, though. |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2008 : 07:59:47
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quote:
Originally posted by Disco Stu
^^^
I suppose I can get by with 60/40 or 50/50 solder and an iota of plumbers' flux for copper wire to steel or brass terminals.
Don't do it!
Plumbers use a different composition of solder & different flux than is necessary for electronics work. Typically, plumbing solder is 50% lead and 50% tin with acid flux.
Electronic solder is 60% lead and 40% tin, and uses rosin flux instead. It matters, so do it right by using the right type of solder for electronic work.  |
Edited by - DeFrag on 12/09/2008 08:00:40 |
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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
Posted - 12/10/2008 : 01:35:29
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Thanks Defrag, I will avoid the acid flux. I've got some 60/40 solder around with just lead and tin, solid core.
What's a decent brand of electronics-grade rosin flux? For leaded-glass work, I use a liquid-acid flux, and to sweat copper pipe, a paste flux. I'm sure that I do not have any electronics flux in the shop. |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 12/10/2008 : 02:32:08
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I guess you could use this rosin flux but it would entail an extra step in soldering when you should be concentrating on making good joints instead w/o having to fool with liquid too.
I'd recommend you just get some rosin-core solder to make things easier. But, I understand if you want to use up the solder you have on hand as well. I'm the same way so, its your call.
Here's some info I posted a couple months ago:
http://www.curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder#a10
Is 63/37 better than 60/40 solder?
http://www.curiousinventor.com/images/how_to_solder/phase_diagram.jpg
63/37 refers to the weight ratio (tin / lead) and is a eutectic mix as opposed to 60/40 solder. A decade or so ago, most of the manufacturers paid an increase of about 5% in cost to switch over to 63/37 (more tin is more expensive). We've been told that the switch was done mainly to achieve better yields with mass-scale surface mount soldering, but is it any more effective for hand soldering?
What is a eutectic mix? One where the entire mixture solidifies at the same temperature. Unlike water, 60/40 solder solidifies over a range of temperatures where it becomes a "pasty" mix of solids and liquid. This can lead to a longer freezing time when it's important to keep a joint from moving to avoid leaving cracks. Is the increase in freezing time significant for hand soldering? Even in a freezing cup of eutectic water, there is a mixture of solids and liquids as the colder portions freeze first.
Courtesy of http://www.curiousinventor.com |
Edited by - DeFrag on 12/10/2008 02:32:29 |
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zerksies
Double Platinum Member
USA
3406 Posts |
Posted - 12/10/2008 : 03:09:00
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quote:
Originally posted by DeFrag
quote:
Originally posted by Disco Stu
^^^
I suppose I can get by with 60/40 or 50/50 solder and an iota of plumbers' flux for copper wire to steel or brass terminals.
Don't do it!
Plumbers use a different composition of solder & different flux than is necessary for electronics work. Typically, plumbing solder is 50% lead and 50% tin with acid flux.
Electronic solder is 60% lead and 40% tin, and uses rosin flux instead. It matters, so do it right by using the right type of solder for electronic work.
plumbers do not use lead at all anymore for solder it is 95/5
95 percent tin and 5 percent antimony. for safety purposes they have not use 50/50 solder in many years |
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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2008 : 05:10:53
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All this helpful DIY advice, but nobody wants to sell me a cable!
I do have plenty of speaker cable around, but haven't started looking for 2.1 mm plugs. I would need to look at a factory one first anyhow in order to get the wiring correct...
By the way Laurie, nice new avatar. It looks like a Dinosaur!
So whomever has the lowdown on high-quality but inexpensive 2.1 mm plugs, let me know and save me from spending 5 or ten bucks on a cable! |
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verivorax
Platinum Member
Canada
1185 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2008 : 05:30:33
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| Can you use a Maxon Cable-5 or the like? Is the whole thing parallel so you can just avoid the male 2.1mm plug and use only the females? They're really cheap.. way less than the amount of effort/time to make one (for me, anyway....) and less work than having one shipped to you! |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2008 : 06:52:51
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quote:
Originally posted by Disco Stu
By the way Laurie, nice new avatar. It looks like a Dinosaur!
THanks! It's actually the PCB layout for my 10-pedal 9VDC regulated power supply (curiously relevant to this thread!) |
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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2008 : 07:54:03
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Verivorax, I know nothing of the Maxon Cable-5, but I will look it up. From what I can tell, the LS-2 or the several other Boss pedals that power others do it through a daisy chain of what I would call male plugs. The same critter on the end of a PSA or ACA.
As for the wiring, I imagine that they would have to be parallel rather than series, but I might have that completely backwards... I would think that each tip must deliver a solid 9 Volts to each pedal, up to the limit of Amperes that the PSA or ACA supplying power to the mothership can deliver.
Most likely, you know more about the subject than I!
Laurie, I think that PCB looks like a Tyrannosaur in profile. Hope you had a great time in NYC.
-- Disco Stu
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2008 : 08:16:12
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Had a great time in NYC!! Drank WAY too much alcohol (met up with some Aussie friends... need I say more), and walked about 150 miles. Thanks for asking!
Unrelated to NYC, I'm looking back over this thread and it strikes me that what you really wanted was someone's spare cable for cheap. Building one will cost about $7 to $10 - the plugs are about $1 each from you local electronics store (smallbear has them for $0.70 http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=136).
You are correct - the connectors are all wired in parallel. The term "serial" is sometimes used because the plugs are "daisychain" connected (which looks like it might be "serial" but isn't) instead of "star" connected which is the best electrical connection approach. I'm rambling.
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Edited by - Laurie on 12/11/2008 08:20:00 |
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Disco Stu
Silver Member
USA
303 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2008 : 10:51:31
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Hi --
Thanks Defrag for the links. Looked up your link for Trinity Rosin flux, and they are local enough for me to justify visiting their store, if they have such a thing. Piscataway is an hour from my farm, and a University buddy lives there.
Laurie, glad you had fun in the Big Apple. I bet you never got a chance to visit the beer establishments I advised, but it doesn't matter since there are about ten million others.
Despite how much fun it might be to build a daisy chain cable of my own, I will probably end up purchasing one. I am just trying to look toward the future and envision a time when I can power up several pedals with no glitches...
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. |
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verivorax
Platinum Member
Canada
1185 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2008 : 13:21:00
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male/female... the 2.1mm which fits into a pedal is the female, as the pin is in the male (the barrel is more like a female condom...). Same with XLR, right? The side with the pins is the male?
So the BOSS daisy chain has all female plugs (to fit into the in/out dc jacks of an LS-2 etc), the Maxon (It's really called GODLYKE Cable-5..but Maxon owns them, so I tend to refer to them together.. my bad) has 5 female for pedals, and one male which affixes to your regular AC adapter - PSA or whatnot.
It's the same as Ibanez' DC-3 (poorly named, I think ) and DC-5 cables, which cost twice as much. Very robust looking, but they're a little big for a tight pedalboard:
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Leeroyfunk
Silver Member
United Kingdom
400 Posts |
Posted - 12/18/2008 : 23:09:02
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quote:
Originally posted by verivorax
....has 5 female for pedals, and one male which affixes to your regular AC adapter - PSA or whatnot.
It's the same as Ibanez' DC-3 (poorly named, I think ) and DC-5 cables, which cost twice as much. Very robust looking, but they're a little big for a tight pedalboard:
The onespot-style daisychains have right-angle plugs, which makes much more sense for fitting into a tight pedal board.
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zerksies
Double Platinum Member
USA
3406 Posts |
Posted - 12/19/2008 : 00:32:14
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| you know if the one spot work in the bcb60 |
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Topic |
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WTB: Daisy Chain power cable for LS-2 etc.
