Bossarea Forum
Bossarea Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Serial Database | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 Boss Products
 Modifications and Technical Issues
 Dunlop Wah footswitches
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/17/2006 :  20:06:31  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
My other band members think since I made a pedal from a kit that I am now an effects wizard, so the other guitarist wants me to take a look at his Dunlop CFH Wah pedal that mysterisouly died a few months ago. He believes its the footswitch, cause he says it doesn't click like it used to...
So I need to ask, do the footswicthes make a noticeable click when working properly? Because the switch does not click as loudly as a 3PDT, so I am wondering you can tell audibly. If not, how can you tell if a switch went bad? I have a multimeter if there is some way to test it that way, or a way to test everything else to eliminate other possible problems.

Also, is there a way to tell if the pedal somehow got a surge from an AC adaptor? As I recall him explaining what happened a few months back, and something in his story lead me to believe it got fried...Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks.

Oh yeah, I cannot read schematics at this point, so if anyone has a Dunlop CFH Wah and can take a internal pic or 2 just so I can make sure everything looks normal internally. This guy is rough, or ignorant, with his equipment when it comes to storage and transport so something may have just come loose.

diggum12
Silver Member

USA
282 Posts

Posted - 10/18/2006 :  19:43:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's almost too many questions at once. Here's what I would check first: Dunlop/MXR usually has a Zener diode for overload protection right below the DC jack. Check that with a meter. If you don't have a way to check it just replace it. They cost a buck at Radio Shack.

As far as the switch, I doubt the Crybaby From Hell Wah uses the typical Carling switch (which Small Bear stocks) so you may just have to rewire it using a DPDT or 3PDT anyway.

Good luck.
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/18/2006 :  20:51:41  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by diggum12

That's almost too many questions at once. Here's what I would check first: Dunlop/MXR usually has a Zener diode for overload protection right below the DC jack. Check that with a meter. If you don't have a way to check it just replace it. They cost a buck at Radio Shack.

As far as the switch, I doubt the Crybaby From Hell Wah uses the typical Carling switch (which Small Bear stocks) so you may just have to rewire it using a DPDT or 3PDT anyway.

Good luck.



Sorry about asking too many questions, I just had a lot of spare time on my hands at work, and I was just brainstorming about what may be wrong with it.

I do have a multimeter, but if you can explain what I need to have my multimeter set to in order the check the zener diode, it would be greatly appreciated, cause if it ain't broke, I don't want to worry about fixing it.

I saw all the switches on SmallBear as well, but wasn't sure which one I might need, so thanks for that info.
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/19/2006 :  02:11:31  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by diggum12

As far as the switch, I doubt the Crybaby From Hell Wah uses the typical Carling switch (which Small Bear stocks) so you may just have to rewire it using a DPDT or 3PDT anyway.



I got around to testing the pedal. 9v adaptor works fine. Messed around with the switch, first by hand, I would have to click down several times to get the wah to turn on, but only once to turn it off. Tried using my foot, I could never get it to turn on, but once I turned it on by hand, I could turn it off with my foot as normal.

As far as the switch, it is a Carling switch, though unlike the one at Small Bear, this one is 4-prong. However, I noticed the little PCB that is attached to the foot switch has 6 prongs, but only 4 are being used. So I ordered the switch Small bear has and I figure I can cut 2 of the extra prongs off....Damn, maybe I shouldn't have jumped the gun on ordering the switch....oh well, just have to see how it looks once I take the old switch off to see how they got it on...been looking on the net. The pics of the footswitch that I can find on the parts list from Dunlop shows 6 prong switches, so maybe they did some modding to the switch...

Edited by - jack on 10/19/2006 04:07:25
Go to Top of Page

diggum12
Silver Member

USA
282 Posts

Posted - 10/19/2006 :  16:47:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes that is odd. I've seen 3 pole & 6 pole switches in Crybaby's, but not a 4 pole. Well, I'm kind of going out on a limb because I can't see the actual pedal in front of me, but if I were you I would have chosen one of the DPDT X-wing style switches from Small Bear.

Don't go "cutting" anything off just yet.
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/19/2006 :  17:23:03  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by diggum12

Yes that is odd. I've seen 3 pole & 6 pole switches in Crybaby's, but not a 4 pole. Well, I'm kind of going out on a limb because I can't see the actual pedal in front of me, but if I were you I would have chosen one of the DPDT X-wing style switches from Small Bear.

Don't go "cutting" anything off just yet.



I won't, I think I'll have a better idea of what I am dealing with once I get the old footswitch out. It may be 3 pole. I am just a bit mixed up cause like I said, the PCB attached to the switch has 6 holes in it. It looks like there 4 poles on the footswitch. On the footswitch PCB 2 definitely have something attached, and I can't tell for sure about the other 2, whether its 1 or 2 attachments, and 2 are not connected to anything on the footswitch and filled with solder. Then I checked about part #ECB555, which is the part number they give for the switch on the Dunlop site, and all those look to be 6 poles, DPDT. In hindsight, after figuring out the problem, I should have been more patient about ordering a part. I heard that the guys at Small Bear are pretty cool though, so once I get the switch from them, if its wrong, maybe I can exchange it for the right one, if not, since I am getting into builds (maybe mods and repairs depending how this goes ), it never hurts to have some extra parts.

Or I can just experiment with it, as I already told my friend I think I can fix it, but I am not 100% certain I can, but I am 100% sure of what the problem is. He said if I could cool, if not, then don't worry about it cause its not working at this point anyways. I'm thinking about putting all 6 poles through the 6 holes on the PCB, or just wiring from the 3-4 holes on the PCB to somewhat corresponding poles on the switch. There has to be a way, it might not be pretty, but as long as it works, who cares if the connection is pretty? It'll be all enclosed anyways...

Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted. I'll also see if I can get a picture of it, but all I have is a cellphone cam, so I don't know how they'll turn out.

Edited by - jack on 10/19/2006 17:42:14
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/24/2006 :  04:28:28  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I got the new switch, and took some pics. I apologize for the crappy quality of the pics, I have limited resources at the moment, but appreciate any help with my footswitch questions. Thanks.



Here is how the switch looks from the side. The switch I ordered has 6 lugs (Carling 316-PP), the one on the pedal has 4.

However, looking at the PCB for the footswitch, it looks like there is a connection made between what would be lugs 3 & 6 in a normal 6 lug DPDT switch...



So I am wondering if I can use the 6 lug switch I ordered by just going through the footswitch PCB? It seems that I could, but I just would like a second opinion. Or do I need to do some sort of modification or get a new switch?

Thanks for your time & help!
Go to Top of Page

stinkfoot
Silver Member

Sweden
181 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2006 :  16:03:15  Show Profile  Visit stinkfoot's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking at the schematic (unverified, found on the web), the switch is most likely a momentary item, which isn't compatible with the 316PP you bought.

/Andreas
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/27/2006 :  01:46:46  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stinkfoot

Looking at the schematic (unverified, found on the web), the switch is most likely a momentary item, which isn't compatible with the 316PP you bought.

/Andreas



Thanks Andreas/Stinkfoot, any suggestions on what might be a good switch that meets my needs? I appreciate any ideas you may have. Thanks!
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 10/27/2006 :  20:45:23  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
UPDATE!

Hopefully I got this problem taken care of as I ordered a switch directly from Dunlop. To my surprise, it was easy to order from Dunlop. I thought I was going to get into an automated system where I would be put on hold for long periods of time and transferred to extensions where no one knew what I was talking about. Much to my surprise however, my call was picked up after the 2nd ring by an actual person who took my order in just a few minutes. Then I was worried about once I ordered the part about getting gouged on shipping and handling, but they only charge $6.25, which may be a bit much for a footswitch, but I was expecting to be charged at least twice that or be told that I had to order at minimum of $50 of parts or some crap, but it all worked out.
Go to Top of Page

jack
Platinum Member

USA
1418 Posts

Posted - 11/10/2006 :  00:07:40  Show Profile  Visit jack's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Got the switch from Dunlop today and successfully swapped it out with the old aond broken one.

For future reference, the footswitch in this Wah and the Hendrix Fuzz was are SPST switches, unlike most other Dunlop Wahs.....
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
Bossarea Forum © 2005-2007 BossArea Go To Top Of Page
Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.06