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FlyingFish-
Copper Member
United Kingdom
5 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2008 : 19:27:37
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Okay, I've got a CS-3 that's not working right. I got it at Christmas last year and by the end of January it broke. :S
Basically when it's plugged into the amp there is output from it, though it's extremely buzzy when on by-pass and even more when it's turned on. Nothing works on the input though. No sound comes through.
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
    
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2008 : 21:12:35
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I've just had mine in pieces so can probably help... Do you have a volt meter? Are you comfortable with schematic diagrams?
Laurie |
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FlyingFish-
Copper Member
United Kingdom
5 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2008 : 17:05:35
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| Don't have a volt meter, but I'm fine with schematic diagrams though. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
    
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 01:47:24
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Sorry to take so long to get back to you...
OK. Few dumb things up front.
Does it do the same thing on fresh battery? Have you tried it on a PSA adapter? Has it been plugged into any adapter that isn't a Boss PSA adapter? When you take the back off, is there any strange smell or visible burned components? Does the LED light up normally when the effect is turned on?
Let's get that all out of the way then we can dive into the real fault-finding!
Regards, Laurie.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
    
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 10:31:46
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quote: Originally posted by FlyingFish-
Okay, I've got a CS-3 that's not working right. I got it at Christmas last year and by the end of January it broke. :S
Basically when it's plugged into the amp there is output from it, though it's extremely buzzy when on by-pass and even more when it's turned on. Nothing works on the input though. No sound comes through.
Help?
Hi FlyingFish-
What happened to it just before it stopped working? Maybe post some internal pictures of the board - both sides.
Regards Dr. Bob |
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FlyingFish-
Copper Member
United Kingdom
5 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 10:44:53
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quote: Originally posted by lauries2
Sorry to take so long to get back to you...
OK. Few dumb things up front.
Does it do the same thing on fresh battery? Have you tried it on a PSA adapter? Has it been plugged into any adapter that isn't a Boss PSA adapter? When you take the back off, is there any strange smell or visible burned components? Does the LED light up normally when the effect is turned on?
Let's get that all out of the way then we can dive into the real fault-finding!
Regards, Laurie.
Right there's no change with battery's in it, for powering all my pedals I use the adapter that came with a Zoom I got a few years back and a daisy chain. This hasn't affected any of my other Boss pedals though. I'll get the PSA incase though.
There are no visible damaged parts or smell and when the effect is on the light lights up like normal.
I'll get pictures of it up tonight.
Thanks for your help so far! |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
    
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 12:09:32
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Hi FlyingFish-
A copy of the CS-3 schematic & some Bass mods, can be found here: http://www.ev-b.com/cs3modding.html
Regards Dr. Bob |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 04/02/2008 12:23:09 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
    
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 15:41:54
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quote: Originally posted by FlyingFish- I'll get the PSA incase though.
Probably not worth getting a PSA if your other Boss pedals are working OK on the current supply.
Taking a stab at this problem, knowning the basics are OK, and the fact that it's "extremely buzzy when on by-pass and even more when it's turned on"... I'd say it's around either IC1a or IC3.
Flyingfish - do you have a way of checking the signal at IC1 pin 1? An oscilloscope would be perfect, a voltmeter would be OK (do you have a friend with one?). Alternatively, the following will work, but needs great care...
Go buy yourself a 1/4 inch socket and two alligator-clip leads. Plug your guitar into the pedal, and the amp into the 1/4 inch socket you just bought. TURN THE AMP DOWN TO NEARLY ZERO!! Use one alligator clip to jump the "sleeve" of the socket over to the metalwork of the pedal (ground). Get someone else to play the guitar and carefully(!) jump the "tip" of the socket the amp is plugged into to pin 1 on IC1 with the other alligator clip lead. Please don't do this if you don't feel comfortable - it's easy to break stuff if you slip with the alligator clips.
Now... if you hear the guitar when touching pin 1 on IC1 (it wont matter whether the pedal is turned on or off), we will have proved IC1b is OK. Do the same to IC2 pin 3 and if there is signal there, IC 3 and IC2 are OK.
If you can do this with a volt meter that would be a "safer" approach. Set the volt meter to "AC" and "millivolts" and you should see about 100 to 200 millivolts on pin 1 of IC1 when you play the guitar - a definite jump when you hit a note/chord.
Let us know how all this goes... |
Edited by - Laurie on 04/02/2008 15:47:15 |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
    
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 15:56:12
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Hi lauries2, FlyingFish- & guys
I posted a link to the CS-3 schematic , FlyingFish- said he was comfortable with reading schematics.
It should make it clearer for him when he sees what you're getting him t yest on the CS-3 with the alligator clip audio detector, that you described.
I would probably use a 100n (0.1uf) cap on the hot side, as a DC blocking cap - just insulate most of the lead with a piece of hookup wire sleeving. Stops those nasty DC clicks you might send to the input of the amp. Although most good amps will have some form of input cap. (hopefully)
Regards Dr. Bob
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
    
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2008 : 16:01:26
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quote: Originally posted by Dr. Bob I would probably use a 100n (0.1uf) cap on the hot side, as a DC blocking cap - just insulate most of the lead with a piece of hookup wire sleeving. Stops those nasty DC clicks you might send to the input of the amp. Although most good amps will have some form of input cap. (hopefully
Thanks Dr.Bob - that would make it safer still!! |
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