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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
 Posted - 03/08/2006 : 07:51:21
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| Okay, I just won a bid for a PH-1 Silver Screw from Ebay. I took a bit of a risk, but from a seller with good feedback, and a return option, I figured what the heck. It's got no knobs (which is fine, I work at an auth. Boss retailer so I can get those for under a buck I bet) and it is in absolutely mint condition otherwise, but when I get this pedal, what are the important things to look for to determine authenticity that are specific to this pedal? |
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Sunburst
Silver Member
427 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2006 : 09:32:59
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The thing is with early Boss pedals that they have a small screw in the knob that tightens it to the pot. Newer pedals dont have that screw, and those old type of knobs can be quite hard to come by.
Other than that, check the PCB board for new solder joints. The battery connector should be in a gray colour if it is original. Newer ones are black. |
Edited by - Sunburst on 03/08/2006 10:08:53 |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2006 : 10:09:14
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| Sunburst's post covers most things. Just like to add that the bottom label should be black and it is most likely of type 2 or 5 on the label page. |
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Sunburst
Silver Member
427 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2006 : 12:06:07
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| I forgot to mention that it may be good to check if the pedal has been modded for permanent LED. Research from bossarea indicates that if the serial number is 8900 and below it should have a blinking LED, that only lights up when the pedal is depressed. |
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 09:24:14
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Hello hello... got the PH-1 in the mail today (well, yesterday) and this thing will not work. No signal at all, with an adaptor or battery. I checked the inside of the pedal, and it actually looks very good, but there's only one wire going to the output jack (to the sleeve - nothing wired to the tip. The light does not come on - not even momentarily. Any help?
P.S. The serial number is 8400, it has a grey battery clip and a clear switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 10:57:33
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Hmm... some tinkering has brought to light a diode and a cap with infinite 2-way continuity. My knowledge is extremely limited when it comes to electronics, but could these be the source of the problem?
http://cheiron84.fortunecity.com/diodecap.jpg
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Edited by - lazzrath on 03/16/2006 11:21:07 |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 16:48:00
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Does signal pass through the pedal at all? You ought to at least have bypass with power applied.
C.K.
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 20:18:40
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| nope - no signal at all. well, with another check, there is an extremely small amount of signal. And I mean, extremely small. |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 21:21:09
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You're probably going to require servicing information in order to proceed further -- one thing you can try is to take a look at some of the Boss schematics over at the Free Information Society web site (http://www.freeinfosociety.com)... you'll probably note similarities in the bypass switching of many, if not all, of the compact pedals -- I'm saying this because, if I remember correctly, there unfortunately isn't a schematic for the PH-1 there.
It looks as though, in general, the footswitch operates a flip-flop of sorts that either switches on or off a field-effect transistor (FET) that the bypass signal is routed through (and I'm guessing it also somehow disables or enables the "effect" path at the same time). It could be that you lost that FET, and perhaps the trickle of audio you're hearing is just some leakage through it.
I'm just taking a SWAG at it here...
(edit: I forgot to mention that the path to the schematics on that site is Technology --> Electronics --> Schematic Archice --> Audio)
C.K.
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Edited by - stahlhart on 03/16/2006 21:22:59 |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 21:34:42
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Take a look at the DM-3 schematic, for example. You see the footswitch triggering the flip-flop (Q9, Q10), which is alternately switching on either of the two FETs Q8 or Q11. It looks as though Q8 is the wet (effect) signal path, and somehow the switching governs whether dry or effected signal is mixed together in the vicinity of Q11 and IC1a.
C.K. (someone correct me if I'm totally wrong here)
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Edited by - stahlhart on 03/16/2006 21:35:00 |
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 21:53:36
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| Thank you very much, stahlhart. I will take a look at the DM-3 schem., and in the meantime, if anyone happens to know the value of that diode that is blown, help would be greatly appreciated. thank you! |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 23:00:52
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| The diode is a 11V/0.5W Zener. It's called RD11EB but there's lots of compatible replacements out there. Don't think you'll find this diode in the DM-3 schematic but if you look at the SG-1 schematic it's D1. |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2006 : 23:09:30
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quote:
Originally posted by lazzrath
Thank you very much, stahlhart. I will take a look at the DM-3 schem., and in the meantime, if anyone happens to know the value of that diode that is blown, help would be greatly appreciated. thank you!
No problem... note, though, that I just chose DM-3 at random just as an example -- there might be another Boss pedal that has a switching arrangement closer to the PH-1. Probably one of the older pedals in the line, like the SG-1 that bossarea suggested.
C.K.
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/17/2006 : 01:35:57
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Thanks for all the help guys! I think I might just be able to salvage it. The seller has also agreed to refund a portion of the purchase price, so it looks like an even better deal all around. Thanks for the diode value - I'm going to purchase it tomorrow.
Also, the lady at Active Electronics sold me a 25v 100�F cap, instead of the 16v that was originally inside. She assured me this would not affect performance or sound, but I would like a second opinion. Is this really going to be identical? What would it change if anything? |
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stahlhart
Platinum Member
1318 Posts |
Posted - 03/17/2006 : 02:56:55
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quote:
Originally posted by lazzrath
Also, the lady at Active Electronics sold me a 25v 100�F cap, instead of the 16v that was originally inside. She assured me this would not affect performance or sound, but I would like a second opinion. Is this really going to be identical? What would it change if anything?
The voltage value is a maximum DC rating -- it just states the largest voltage that the capacitor menufacturer recommends you put across its terminals in order to prevent breakdown of the dielectric between them. As long as you exceed the voltage in the circuit by a reasonably safe margin, you're okay (and you do here, since you're going no higher than 9VDC in your PH-1).
The other factor that the voltage rating influences is the physical size of the capacitor. Over the years manufacturing techniques have improved, and a capacitor (especially electrolytics) of a given rating today made today is usually significantly smaller than its older counterpart. So more than likely if you're replacing an old capacitor with a new one, you've usually got enough room to fit one with a higher rating than the original, even though it isn't necessary to up the rating.
Short answer: no worries, you're golden...
C.K.
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lazzrath
Bronze Member
Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 03/17/2006 : 07:28:47
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Great! Well, I guess it's off to the races... let's see if I have a working phaser by the end of it all. I figure this is a great way to teach myself electronics.
Thanks for all your help! |
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PH-1 Help
