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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
 Posted - 10/27/2006 : 23:25:10
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I have a dream..
I'm thinking about using lengths of Tygon tubing where one end pushes onto BOSS pedal knobs & extends into a stand that straddles my pedalboard. The tubes would be separated by threading up through holes dedicated to each pedal & could even be color-coded per function. A backing plate could document each set of tubes.
What this all means of course would be we could more easily control the parameters of our beloved BOSS effectors without bending or stooping. I'd like to sit on a bar-stool with a back-support & tweak away the hours while my foot is still always at the ready for switching.
The unit wouldn't have to be elaborate at all.. simply a cradle to segregate each pedal's set of extension tubes. I'd make the stand height-adjustable as well. I'll give it some design time & run some tubing tests, especially with regards to the stacked pot controls on the newer pedals & see how things work out. |
Edited by - DeFrag on 10/28/2006 04:11:11 |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 10/28/2006 : 01:12:38
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Crap, the only thing I can think of that dashes my hopes for a great idea is the fact that the front pedal tubes get in the way of stomping the pedals directly behind.  |
Edited by - DeFrag on 10/28/2006 01:13:08 |
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starr36
Platinum Member
Canada
1172 Posts |
Posted - 10/28/2006 : 03:56:23
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a brilliant idea as long as only using inline pedal board!  |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
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StratoSphere
Double Platinum Member
Canada
2232 Posts |
Posted - 10/25/2007 : 13:33:28
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good idea Defrag, ive been thinking of similar ideas lately too. my idea was to make a pedal board that sits at about waist level. that way you can tweak everything without bending over. only thing is you cant stop everything on and off with your foot, but this would be mostly for bedroom use.
as it stands now i sit on a milkcrate to play since its low to the ground and i can tweak everything by leaning forward.  |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 10/25/2007 : 20:17:39
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I set my Mackie mixer on a Hercules (keyboard) stand that I put a high-density board with a drawer underneath but my point is, to both sides of my mixer I have 4 Moog pedals. With as much tweaking, they're placed perfectly within reach. I've heard many of my fellow Moogers do the same.
Agreed, Strato.. I think that a waist-high pedalboard is also a great idea. Sure you can't dance on them but within reason, you can always hold a note for a second while you quickly reach over & dial something in or engage a pedal. This might actually be ideal for home use. Of course for practices, session work, or actual gigs it would be an entirely different story. |
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FunkenGrooven
Silver Member
USA
360 Posts |
Posted - 10/26/2007 : 01:38:12
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I had to laugh when I saw that 3rd hand device my first thought was "Just what I need a pedal the size of a small tank that only controls 1 function on 1 device where can I squeeze that onto my board?" |
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pedals 4 pv
Platinum Member
Canada
1351 Posts |
Posted - 10/26/2007 : 02:43:06
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Mount your pedals to the wall with velcro,then you can just headbutt the footswitches and use your mouth to turn the knobs. |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 10/26/2007 : 03:09:29
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quote:
Originally posted by FunkenGrooven
I had to laugh when I saw that 3rd hand device my first thought was "Just what I need a pedal the size of a small tank that only controls 1 function on 1 device where can I squeeze that onto my board?"
I kinda thought that too, but immediately started thinking about some design change that would give you about 4 articulating cables to support 4 functions. I came up with like a double wah pedal but instead of a single rack & pinion design, each pedal would perch atop a ball/socket or joystick if you will. Weird I know, but trying to think outside the box. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 04:33:54
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Just saw this thread... I've been thinking the same thing - no bending (must be getting old/lazy  ).
Here's my idea... Build a "rail" with maybe 10 true bypass switching circuits. Mount your pedals on a board within easy reach but wire them into the rail (with a multicore?) and switch them from there. Costs a few $ to build the "rail", but worth it in back ache.
Laurie
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Edited by - Laurie on 03/03/2008 05:10:14 |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 05:34:35
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| Hmm.. your design may in fact be easier to implement & much nicer! Whatcha get for thinking outside the box.. at least we're thinking, eh? I can't really kneel for over 5 minutes anymore. |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 06:07:55
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quote:
Originally posted by DeFrag
Hmm.. your design may in fact be easier to implement & much nicer! Whatcha get for thinking outside the box.. at least we're thinking, eh? I can't really kneel for over 5 minutes anymore.
I'm convinced it will work... and I'd put my multipedal 7809 based supply on the "remote" board plus send maybe 5VDC down to the "switch rail" to run the bypass relays and indicator LEDS - you'd leave the pedals always on, and when they were switched into circuit the LED on the "rail" would light. Run a bit of 28-core multicore (from a 24/4 snake) between them and with a few cores used for power you'd have enough channels for 13 pedals.
Been thinking about this a lot - I'm halfway there with my current pedalboard (see the true-bypass "switch rail" to the left of the pedals in the pic below). Not much change to the design to split it. If you didn't have to allow for pedals behind the footswitches, you could stagger the switches in two or three rows and make the "switch rail" quite compact. You could also cluster the true-bypass relays together on a small PCB with the multicore running from that one point to the "remote" board (no loops of signal carrying wire inside the "switch rail"). Just need a little tag on each switch for the pedal it's connected to on the "remote" board.
EDIT: oooh! Oooh! Even better! Put the true-bypass switching relays on the REMOTE board - then you can use a bit of computer cable with a 25 pin D connector or something (any old thing) between the "switch rail" and the "remote" board because all it's carrying is relay coil switching.
I estimate with the aluminium for the "switch rail", footswitches, relays, LEDS, cable, power supply parts, etc it will cost about $250.
Hmmm... think I'm gonna make it. Anyone want to buy a patented, you-beaut "knee saver" true-bypass board?
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Edited by - Laurie on 03/03/2008 06:14:28 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 06:35:37
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This is what it would look like.
This is so cool I'm tempted to write "all rights reserved" all over it... 
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 07:09:08
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| Just think.. this thread languished for eons before you rode into town. I'll split it with ya 40/60 |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 07:42:11
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Let me build it first! If it doesn't work, 40% of nothing is still nothing 
(or were you the 60% in this deal ) |
Edited by - Laurie on 03/03/2008 07:42:37 |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 07:59:45
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Heh, I was 40.. you're the one running with it.
As a matter of fact, I have another idea that we can split as well but I'd rather take it offline. How well can you Tolex? |
Edited by - DeFrag on 03/03/2008 08:01:09 |
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Topic |
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Knob Extensions
