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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/11/2009 :  22:52:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It lights up but there is no effect. I can still play thru it but and hear the guitar. I have replaced IC2 chip with no difference. Everything else looks normal. I have resolderd all connections. I get nothing thru a or b jacks. Could there be a problem in the stomp switch? Any suggestions other than throw it away.....lol?

Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  12:59:10  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi sweatyk

Welcome to the forum from Australia.

- What happened to your CH-1 just before it failed?
- Did it get a Rev, volts or over volts belting?

- How did you come to the conclusion-diagnosis to replace IC2?
- Do you have the Schematic or service manual for the Ch-1?

- What diagnostic & Tech tools do you have access to?

Apologies for all the questions, but you know the story.
The more you tell us, the more we might be able to help you.

Regards Dr. Bob
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Lu9
Copper Member

Poland
12 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  13:12:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi sweatyk, I see when you stomp the switch LED is lights up <--> down or still lit? Pedal pass the sound only when effect is off? If you have an analog version of CH-1 try check and replace an opamp IC5 M5218L or similar. Try describe more precision your problem. Regard - Luke.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  13:30:28  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Lu9

Nice to see you back.
And thanks for chiming in to help out...

Regards Dr. Bob
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  14:58:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok guys here are the answers. The pedal was given to me in this condition with no history. On my dianosis it was quite some time ago but it seemed logical based on the schematic. It was kind of a shot in the dark. I used to work for a place called PTS electronics back in the late 70's early 80's repairing television module circuit boards. Sort of a rebuild shop for the local tv repair shops. I have basic electronic skills. Equipment on hand is a soldering station and digital multimeter. I've always been a tinkerer and will tear almost anything apart to see if I can fix it. Most of the time I get lucky. I'm not real technical when it comes to troubleshooting but I'm very observant looking for the obvious, cold solder joints, off value resistors, things like that. I really appreciate you guys chiming in and trying to help.

And for Lu9 I will post the serial number on here when I get home. Maybe you can tell me which it is.


Thanks again
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moonmarkcus
Silver Member

Nicaragua
224 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  21:50:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Do you hear the same by pass volume like you are connected direct to amp?
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2009 :  22:04:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes. The volume never changed.
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2009 :  18:34:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Did you guys give up on me already?
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Lu9
Copper Member

Poland
12 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2009 :  19:18:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi sweatyk,
Tell me what kind of PCB have your CH-1

Analog:
http://www.puechel.de/downloads/boss_ch1_pcb1.jpg
http://www.puechel.de/downloads/boss_ch1_pcb2.jpg

or Digital:
uploaded/Laurie/CH1aa.jpg
uploaded/Laurie/CH1bb.jpg
uploaded/Laurie/CH1cc.jpg
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2009 :  20:53:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
analog........#7524451000
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2009 :  21:04:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Also sorry about getting the serial number on here. I took off for camping deep in the woods. Just got back. Now I just plugged it in to check it again and there is no volume difference when turning it off and on. However the is a very very slight tonal difference when I do that. Don't know it that will be of any significance or not.
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2009 :  21:17:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I found some polarized caps that were leaking. So I replaced all of those (15 total) but still no change. I'm assuming that the case is ground and I took voltage readings on IC5. These were the results:

Pin #1 4.36V
Pin #2 4.36V
Pin #3 3.96V
Pin #4 0 v
Pin #5 4.23V
Pin #6 4.23V
Pin #7 4.23V
Pin #8 8.45V

I'm not sure if I'm doing this correctly so please someone let me know if this is right. I might have this backwards but I could not tell which was pin 1 and pin 8.

Would it also be recommended to replace those old clear looking square caps?

Also so wanted to note that when I adjust the E.Level and EQ and Depth knobs there is some response however none from the Rate knob.
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bossarea
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
3652 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2009 :  21:58:25  Show Profile  Visit bossarea's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Those voltages sound normal to me. pin8 is conected directly to the battery and pin4 is ground. The other pins are DC-wise typically at half the supply voltage so no surprises there.
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moonmarkcus
Silver Member

Nicaragua
224 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2009 :  00:09:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Are any of your IC hotter that usual?
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cctsim
Silver Member

United Kingdom
418 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2009 :  00:32:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Since you've mentioned the Rate knob is not working, I would check/replace IC4.

If you had an oscilloscope available, you could check on pins 2 and 6 if the clock on the MN3007 chip is still there.
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sweatyk
Copper Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 02/18/2009 :  02:42:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moonmarkcus

Are any of your IC hotter that usual?



None of the IC's are getting unusually hot.


I was looking at the schematic after the rate knob had no response. I don't have an oscilloscope but I was thinking about IC4. I'll do what I can to scrounge one up and see. I'll post back when I get to that point. Thanks again guys for the input.
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