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 Plop noise when switching on my OD-1
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/07/2008 :  11:47:30  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've got a 3rd generation OD-1 and it makes a plop-ing noise when I switch it on... nothing serious since it's impossible to use the OD-1 as an "verse off-chorus on-verse off" pedal anyway. I rather leave it on ALL the time... however it still kinda bugs me.

is this a known issue or is my fet buffer (or however that's called) damaged...?

cheers,
mully

zentropa
Gold Member

USA
837 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2008 :  07:12:02  Show Profile  Send zentropa an AOL message  Reply with Quote
i've had 3, 2 early 80's 1 mid 80's.

none of mine have done that so i'm guessing yours may have a problem.
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leonard d rock
Silver Member

Philippines
301 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2008 :  12:13:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hi mullyFX. i have an od-1 which had some crackling noise, but that was due to a bad solder joint. you may have some problems like this especially if you mod the pedal a lot. however , a plopping noise, assuming its not mechanical (spring etc) may be more electronic in nature . i'm sure sooner, a BAFer will have the cure for it.good luck in finding a cure for that great pedal.
regards,
LDR
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2008 :  12:43:21  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by leonard d rock

hi mullyFX. i have an od-1 which had some crackling noise, but that was due to a bad solder joint. you may have some problems like this especially if you mod the pedal a lot. however , a plopping noise, assuming its not mechanical (spring etc) may be more electronic in nature . i'm sure sooner, a BAFer will have the cure for it.good luck in finding a cure for that great pedal.
regards,
LDR



Hi leonard d rock & Guys

That's a good point, I forgot that there have been a few OD-1 owners here that have had brittle solder joints on there OD-1's

Where the wires connect to the circuit board.
I think it was member "OneWay) that first complained about his intermittent OD-1.
We then finally deduced that it was the BLUE wire on the PCB, & then a few others broke off as well.

Then again it could be one of the input-output electro, caps that have dried out.

Hey MullyFX

Is your OD-1 an 8-pin or the 14-pin IC type?

Regards Dr. Bob
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2008 :  14:17:39  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hey Dr. Bob..

it's an 8pin revision C (I think - will need to open it again to have a look)

still looking for a 16pin one
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2008 :  14:19:17  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
oh and it's definitely no mechanical problem... and it's never been modded as far as I can tell.. will post pictures soon
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leonard d rock
Silver Member

Philippines
301 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  08:48:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"
That's a good point, I forgot that there have been a few OD-1 owners here that have had brittle solder joints on there OD-1's"

one of the things i have to do is to resolder all the wires at the top of the pcb since they are not clear and shiny but dull grey.

LDR
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  13:09:17  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Okay... turns out there's no revision C.... BOSS seems to have a slightly different alphabet (ABD anyone???)

okay so it's revision D - silver screw - serial: 9200 - JRC 4558D

and here are the pictures:















so it seems like I might be wrong about the not modded part... at least it seems like it's been messed with

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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  13:18:47  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:


my OD-1



another OD-1




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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  16:46:43  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi MullyFX

Can I suggest you delsolder & clean up that track the someone has attempted to repair in the forth picture down.

Once it's cleaned up, Visually & electrically, you will be able to better judge what is under that mess.

You might find that it had not been repaired correctly, or is a bad solder joint, under that sh!tty blob of solder.

Then Resolder a short jumper wire across, the what looks like a cracked - cut - lifted, or damaged track.

Without pulling one of my OD-1's apart.
The damage looks like it's around R23-100K and C12-470pf
Both of these are in the flip flop.

Good luck
Let me know if you need the schematic.

Regards Dr. Bob
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  17:31:25  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
the only things I soldered so far were speaker cables to speakers and guitar pick-ups - maybe I'll just give it to someone who knows his ways around soldering better than I do... then again... maybe I'll learn something on the way.
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member

Canada
4854 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  17:43:36  Show Profile  Visit Laurie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
In the flip-flop the "soft" turn on/turn off is caused by the charging of the capacitors on the gate of the FET. The OD-1 schematic i have doesn't show the flip-flop at all, so i don't know what capacitors in the OD-1 do this. As an example of what I'm talking about, capacitors C18 and C19 in the SD-1 are the equivalent ones.

I'm guessing that the track Dr. Bob pointed out is connected to one of those capacitors, or the capacitor itself has failed (unusual).

Stay with it mate - soldering is easy if you have patience and take care to not overheat anything. I'd highly recommend buying some high quality de-soldering braid to use to remove the old solder.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  17:45:36  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MullyFX

the only things I soldered so far were speaker cables to speakers and guitar pick-ups - maybe I'll just give it to someone who knows his ways around soldering better than I do... then again... maybe I'll learn something on the way.



Hi MullyFX

Good luck, keep us informed...

If you can, get/post some pics of the cleaned up area under the crappy solder.
& the repair, when your friend is fixing it.

Regards Dr. Bob
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MullyFX
Gold Member

Germany
753 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  18:16:08  Show Profile  Visit MullyFX's Homepage  Reply with Quote
well I wasn't talking about someone I know.. I was talking about a repair shop or something... but I think I'll try to do it myself.

any advice on which tools I should buy...

they recently had a nice soldering set at ALDI with a big and a small (less hot) solder iron and some other schnickschnack.

could be that it's not the highest quality though so any advice will be gladly taken.
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member

Canada
4854 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  19:14:59  Show Profile  Visit Laurie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MullyFX

well I wasn't talking about someone I know.. I was talking about a repair shop or something... but I think I'll try to do it myself.

any advice on which tools I should buy...

they recently had a nice soldering set at ALDI with a big and a small (less hot) solder iron and some other schnickschnack.

could be that it's not the highest quality though so any advice will be gladly taken.



Well... if you have the Euro to spare, a temperature controlled soldering station is the way to go. Hakko and Weller are the two leading brands.

I've had a Weller WTCP station for over 20 years and it's a great tool. Looking on the Hakko US web site, the Hakko 936 looks good too.

So, a soldering station, some electronics grade solder, and some desoldering braid. Add some quality electronics cutters and needle-nose pliers and that will set you up to do most repairs and mods to your pedals (and other stuff). If i was buying all that here in Canada it would cost less than CAN$200 (about 125 Euro).
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zentropa
Gold Member

USA
837 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2008 :  20:41:41  Show Profile  Send zentropa an AOL message  Reply with Quote
most irons under $20 will be approximately equal.

if you don't go fixed temperature, go low wattage (15 watts or less ideally)
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