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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
 Posted - 03/01/2008 : 16:35:18
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Hi happyplucker
ok after looking at the back for ages,
I have my suspicions about the area marked with a RED OVAL.
Your pics are a bit fuzzy, for a detailed examination.
Possible things I found, remembering the pic is fuzzy.
The pad on the left looks lifted.
The pad on the right, seems to have a wire shorting to it.
OR maybe this is the track between the two pads, & it's supposed
to be there, it may have lifted & become broken or cracked. - hard to see.
Just looking around, you seem to have lifted a few pads & maybe some tracks.
I did not pull apart one of my CE-2's to check this area.
A clearer pic might help us see better.
If t wasn't so far, you could send it to me, & I''d look at it for you.
How long did it work for, after you modded it?
Good luck
Regards Dr. Bob
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Edited by - Dr. Bob on 03/01/2008 16:39:06 |
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ssanyee
Silver Member
Hungary
288 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 16:53:40
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Hello Dr. Bob,
I have checked mine at red oval area, it should be short as it is visible on picture here:
cheers |
Edited by - ssanyee on 03/01/2008 18:46:20 |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 17:12:56
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Hi ssanyee & guys
Thanks -- it's late/early here & I really need to go catch some zzzz's
Do you think the track is cracked near the left side pad?
It looks that way to me, allowing for the glare of the flash.
Thanks for helping out.
I'll PM later some time it's 3am here.
What kind-Model of camera do you have?
And I see you now have the hang of uploading & displaying pictures.
See all you guy later some time....
Regards Dr. Sleepy ----- Bob |
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ssanyee
Silver Member
Hungary
288 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 18:55:07
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Hello Dr. Bob,
I do not know, that is there any crack but can be one of the most suspicious point, I guess as well.
It should be checked by happyplucker with continuity check as Christo has described before!
Let me attach here a picture about my CE-2 soldering side, hope will be help as a reference:
BTW, my camera is a very simple SONY Cybershot DSC-W55 - no problem with it, easy to use.
Yeah, your explanation was perfect how should attach visible pictures to any posts - thanx for that!
cheers |
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 21:08:06
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hi there all of you. really appreciating the effort you are all putting into this.
dr bob - cheers for the offer, i would love someone who knows what theyre doing to have a look, but like you say distance. damn that geography.
regarding the time, it has been 18 months since i did the mod on it. which is why i thought it might be a component that has gone south, as if it had been a bad solder, wouldnt it have not worked straight away?
anyway, i have checked the 'pad' for lifting an it wasnt lifted. (well not to my eyes) there was however a bit of another component leaning towards it but NOT touching. i have rectified this now and resoldered that area taking extra care not to let anyhting run into each other. when i go back in work on monday, i will take a really detailed pic with one of the dig SLR's and post a newer version with all the bits tidied up.
again, many thanks to all who are contributing! |
Edited by - happyplucker on 03/01/2008 21:11:40 |
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RonNovy
Copper Member
USA
24 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 21:24:15
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Ok... Let me try and help a bit more... If you changed the cap I circled in Red then make sure it's rated for 50v. If not swap it back. The one I circled in green should be the correct value but if you swapped it then you can swap it back to the original. Audio doesn't pass through these two so it shouldn't affect the sound, but it could affect the clock pulse. If that doesn't work then look at the numbers on the transistors and see if I have them correct in this image. Really its the 2sk30a-y that we're looking for... If I have it correct then keep reading if not let me know where it is...
Ok... So if your reading this part then the 2sk30a-y transistor is labeled correctly in the image  .. Look at the image below and make a connection between the two points I circled in blue using some spare wire. This will bypass the on/off switching of the effect and make it always on. So hook up the pedal and test it out. If you hear the effect as it should be when the effect is on then you need to replace either the 2sk30a-y or the diode connecting to it (or both). If you still hear the clicking sound without effect then the problem is most likely in the circuitry around the MN3007 or MN3101 or the chips themselves. I'm going to be away from the internet for maybe a few weeks, but if you're still having trouble I'll post more information when I get back.
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2008 : 11:57:40
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ok, update:
changed the comp marked with red circle back to original and then got a bit of wire and connected the two blue marked joints up using the solder that was there.
hooked up the pedal, no led but i suppose that was correct, also no effect and clicking still there, switched pedal 'on' and led lit up still no effect and clicking still there.
so according to NonNovy this would mean that it is the circuitary around MN3007 or MN3101. any ideas as to how to approach this now? |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2008 : 20:03:44
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G'day happyplucker!
How fast is the clicking? One per second? Much faster/slower than that? How, exactly, does it change with the rate knob? Starts out really slow and smoothly changes to really fast as you wind the knob from one stop to the other? Does the tone of the click change as the rate knob is rotated? Does the loudness of the clicking change as the as the rate knob is rotated?
Any specifics might help...
Regards,
Laurie
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 09:46:31
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hi laurie2,
the rate changes from slow when rate is turned fuly left, and obviously, like you said, goes faster when you turn the rate right. the loudness stays the same. the intensity of it also remains the same. the LED lights ok, and my clean signal is pretty much unaffected whether the pedal be on or off ( sounded a bit like a pirate then garr). other than the clicking and the effect itself not coming on. its ok!
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 10:03:59
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Hi happyplucker
Did you or anyone play with the trim pot?
When you test the pedal, are you placing the sheet of insulation plastic between the back of the circuit board ^ the metal base plate
As yo have a couple very long component leads on the far right edge of the board?
I know the questions might seem dumb, but it helps us narrow some of the other possibilities.
Can you describe, what happened or what you may have done,
from when it was working until when it started clicking.
From your description, at least we know the oscillator/clock is working.
Not giving up, but at Uni - School- Work, do you have any tech minded friends, that can read schematics.
As we will send you one or tell you where to down load it.
Can you get some better pics of the back of the board?
Regards Dr. Bob
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 14:29:06
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hi doc & guys
firstly, i forgot the pedal when i went in work today, so ill have some clear pics tomorrow.
as for when/why it stopped working. i cant put it down to anthing specific. it hasnt left the house on gigs for months, so its not been damaged that way. i havent used any new power supplies. just a regular 9vpsa but daisy chained. my old dm-2 works fine like this as did the ce-2. my digital effects are working fine.
when i test it i ALWAYS replace the plastic and then put the bacl on so its shielded. i havent messed with the trim pot, and no one else has had it so i would assume this has been left well alone.
and unfortunately, i tried one of the science dept at work, and the electronic guy said, he could pick certain bits out, but he hasnt got a clue really what he's looking at, when refferring to a schematic of the pedal. (how do some people get jobs) which is why i found this website after searching for a way of maybe fixing this.
i probably shouldnt mess with things as im not electronically minded. but there you go... human beings eh?
sorry i cant be more specific on when/how it came to not work, it just worked one day... didnt play or use it for a week or two, put it back in the chain where it had always been and, click click, click. swine!
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 15:42:03
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Hi happyplucker
I just went back & re-read the entire thread.
I thought, I might have missed something obvious.
I also did a search with my browser, for ( 9 as well as battery).
And I found that I had forgotten to ask the most obvious question.
Does it work with a KNOWN GOOD-NEW 9V Battery?
From what I can tell it's an older ACA 12V adapter pedal.
As I said before , apologies if the questions seem simple or dumb.
Just trying to eliminate things.
Is it an ACA pedal - MIJ - look at the sticker near the DC input socket, it it's still there, a lot of these fall off over time.
Regards Dr. Bob
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/03/2008 : 18:16:33
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hello doc,
sweet lord!
you know what, i never even thought of trying that... and yes i can tell you now its an ACA pedal. but was i right in thinking even if this is the case, daisy chaining it up with some newer pedals, wouldnt do it any harm? but yes i know we're eliminating, so i'll shut up for now, that was just my mind going off on a tangent.
when i get home, i'll give it a whirl with a 9v battery and report back!
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Edited by - happyplucker on 03/03/2008 18:18:54 |
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happyplucker
Bronze Member
United Kingdom
126 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2008 : 12:47:04
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hi guys,
been a bit busy at work, but tried the battery. it worked the pedal but alas, the problem remained. am gonna buy a nemed battery today and try it. then ill report back. oh, and should have some pcb pics aswell. (detailed ones) |
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member
Canada
4854 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2008 : 01:53:02
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quote:
Originally posted by happyplucker
yes i can tell you now its an ACA pedal
Somewhat of an aside to the actual fault-finding - Looking at the picture, there are two wire links right next to input wire #3. D5 and R53 have almost certainly been removed... making the pedal "PSA compatible".
Regards,
Laurie.
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Topic |
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CE-2 Problem - RESOLVED - CE-2 Now Back home
