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nosajwp
Copper Member
USA
24 Posts |
 Posted - 09/07/2006 : 00:19:13
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| Anyone know how to turn the direct out on a DD-2/3 into an effects loop that only effects the repeats? |
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diggum12
Silver Member
USA
282 Posts |
Posted - 09/07/2006 : 01:13:22
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Yeah, Robert Keeley.
No but seriously, great topic. I would like to know as well. |
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ironman28
Copper Member
19 Posts |
Posted - 09/18/2006 : 23:05:32
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Edited by - ironman28 on 10/21/2007 16:54:53 |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 10/21/2007 : 17:55:46
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He converts it into a stereo jack with send/return and a supplied TRS y-cable for send and return. Tip is send, Ring is return.
Check out his product manual.
http://www.robertkeeley.com/product.php?id=41
Wouldn't mind knowing myself |
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WarofGhosts
Copper Member
USA
10 Posts |
Posted - 10/21/2007 : 23:09:23
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Forget where I got this from but looks to be right although I haven't looked at the inside of a DD3 with these instructions in hand to verify but seems correct...
Disconnect the orange wire from pad 13 on the main PCB.
Disconnect the other end of the orange wire from pad 13 on the VR-1 volume board.
Disconnect the blue wire from pad 16 on the PCB. Connect the free end to pad 13 on the VR-1 board.
Disconnect the grey wire from pad 18 on the PCB. Connect the free end to Pad 13 on the PCB.
The tip of the direct jack is the send. The ring is the return.
This interupts the delay signal from the level pot on its way to the mixer stage.
You will want to replace the original direct jack with a switched one so the delay signal passes when the send/return is not used.Try and keep the loop at unity gain so you don't overload the mixer stage. |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
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ironman28
Copper Member
19 Posts |
Posted - 10/22/2007 : 00:31:36
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quote:
Originally posted by WarofGhosts
Forget where I got this from but looks to be right although I haven't looked at the inside of a DD3 with these instructions in hand to verify but seems correct...
Disconnect the orange wire from pad 13 on the main PCB.
Disconnect the other end of the orange wire from pad 13 on the VR-1 volume board.
Disconnect the blue wire from pad 16 on the PCB. Connect the free end to pad 13 on the VR-1 board.
Disconnect the grey wire from pad 18 on the PCB. Connect the free end to Pad 13 on the PCB.
The tip of the direct jack is the send. The ring is the return.
This interupts the delay signal from the level pot on its way to the mixer stage.
You will want to replace the original direct jack with a switched one so the delay signal passes when the send/return is not used.Try and keep the loop at unity gain so you don't overload the mixer stage.
That was from my post above made last year...I verified the connections with the schematic and a DD-3 in hand.
The direct jack needs to be changed to a switched type that has an extra contact that shorts the ring/tip together so the pedal functions normally without something plugged into the send/return jack. |
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theincredible
Copper Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2007 : 17:44:59
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I have a later Taiwanese model version 3, with surface mounted components, no chip on the bottom of the PCB. On my DD-3 not all of the wire colors and pad numbers correspond to the instructions, so I decided to use the wire coloring. Pad 13 was orange as described. The blue wire was labeled C3 on the PCB. It came off the Direct-Out jack. The gray wire went to pad 21 on the PCB. It came from the input jack.
I desoldered the wire on pad 13 on the PCB and VR board
I desoldered the blue wire from pad 2 and soldered it to pad 13 on the VR board
I desoldered gray wire from pad 21 and soldered it to 13 on the PCB
I replaced the original Direct-Out jack with a Stereo TRS jack
As it stands now, I get no delay sound. I only get dry sound. The stomp switch has no effect on the sound. Dry sound always passes through in any delay mode. When I switch between the different delays times and try to activate the stomp switch I still only get dry sound. The red light doesn�t illuminate in any delay mode.
There is an exception. The only way I can get sound from the effects loop is to have it overload. This happens if I hook a phaser in the loop. It instantly produces high-pitch squeals. If I stick a delay in the loop, I can overload it by playing a note and turning the levels to maximum. With the delay, I can bring the levels down, and the overload will subside. Anytime I overload the loop, the led starts to brighten, until complete overload, then it�s fully illuminated. It acts like a clipping meter.
The Hold mode automatically samples when selected. I do not need to depress the stomp switch to get it to sample. Just changing to Hold mode will activate it. The time knob will adjust the sample speed when rotated. The red light illuminates in Hold mode.
I am using a stereo TRS Y-cable. I have tried it both inserted and removed from the TRS jack. I have tried switching the tip and ring on the effect in the DD-3�s loop. Nothing changes the sound. Always a Dry signal (with the exception mentioned), unless I select Hold mode.
The way I understood the directions, the Direct-Out Jack only needed to be replaced if I were going to remove the TRS cable. It only produced dry sound with the original Direct-Out jack. So I tried it with the Stereo jack, which also produced the above mentioned exception.
Here is a shot of my stereo jack:
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff93/forgotten_user/StereoJackSolder.jpg
Here are shots of the DD-3 board. Red circles are the pads I desoldered.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff93/forgotten_user/Pad13PCBand13VRBoard.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff93/forgotten_user/GrayWire.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff93/forgotten_user/BlueWire.jpg
HELP!!!
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2007 : 07:19:27
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Hi theincredible
Welcome to the forum from Australia.
Regards Dr. Bob |
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pedals 4 pv
Platinum Member
Canada
1351 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2007 : 08:12:35
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| yea, welcome, theincredible, I hope you get this sorted out. |
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theincredible
Copper Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 12/12/2007 : 22:42:02
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Thanks for the welcome and encouragement.
I keep running though this in my head, and keep coming back to the stereo-jack. I pretty sure I've wired the ring and tip correctly, but I'm really not so sure about the ground. The sleeve is connected to ground. The currently open solder point corresponds to the closed-contact on the tip (it opens when a plug is inserted). Would that need to be soldered to ground also? |
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theincredible
Copper Member
USA
4 Posts |
Posted - 12/13/2007 : 01:25:30
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In the interest of confirming that I hadn't burned out any of the chips or resistors, or lifted a trace on the PCB, I undid the mod. Of course everything works fine. So for now I'll just leave it as normal working DD-3.
I'll check back here to see if anyone has an idea and maybe try it again.
Thanks. |
Edited by - theincredible on 12/13/2007 03:30:16 |
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fancy pants
Copper Member
USA
30 Posts |
Posted - 12/18/2007 : 23:14:14
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quote:
Originally posted by WarofGhosts
Forget where I got this from but looks to be right although I haven't looked at the inside of a DD3 with these instructions in hand to verify but seems correct...
Disconnect the orange wire from pad 13 on the main PCB.
Disconnect the other end of the orange wire from pad 13 on the VR-1 volume board.
Disconnect the blue wire from pad 16 on the PCB. Connect the free end to pad 13 on the VR-1 board.
Disconnect the grey wire from pad 18 on the PCB. Connect the free end to Pad 13 on the PCB.
The tip of the direct jack is the send. The ring is the return.
This interupts the delay signal from the level pot on its way to the mixer stage.
You will want to replace the original direct jack with a switched one so the delay signal passes when the send/return is not used.Try and keep the loop at unity gain so you don't overload the mixer stage.
Hello, I am new here and heard abut this place va Harmonycentral Forums, so hello
I opened up my two DD-3s and the discription that you gave above seems to be correct for my Made in Japan DD-3, I also have a MIT and the procedure doesn't seem to work.
So thats probably why incredible's didn't work, he probably has a MIT DD-3
Is there any diagrams or better laid on step, by step procedures to do this mod, if not I'll try what you've suggested, thanks |
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fancy pants
Copper Member
USA
30 Posts |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 12/19/2007 : 14:54:29
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To which part fancy? To do the effect loop mod, the jack needs to be replaced. I was confused on that too.
The second part is for a different mod all together |
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fancy pants
Copper Member
USA
30 Posts |
Posted - 12/19/2007 : 22:37:22
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| yeah I was talking to someone about the jack replacement. Where can I get a jack locally without having send away for one? and where can I get the cable needed for it? |
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Topic |
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DD-2/3 Effects Loop
