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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
 Posted - 03/09/2008 : 16:54:00
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after a 6+ year hiatus from guitar my tone lust has re-appeared with a vengeance.
after purging my original 9 series pedals a while back i decided to replace them with MIJ Boss pedals and i'm happy with the result so far but i just picked up my first OD-1 and MIJ DS-1 and i seem to have hit a bit of a snag in my pedal ordering.
right now i am just running guitar into those two pedals and into the amp and it seems that when i have them set up OD-1 -> DS-1 -> amp, the DS-1 (when on by itself) sounds incredibly thin and my guitar tone noticeably declines when the pedals are off. the OD-1 sounds fine by itself. it's doubtful that i will use both on at the same time, but i did get a usable sound when both were on in this order.
i tried switching the order to DS-1 -> OD-1 -> amp. this greatly filled out the sound on the DS-1 when it was on by itself, and didn't change the OD-1 sound much when it was on by itself. this order also improved my clean tone when both pedals were off. unfortunately, i didn't find a usable tone with both pedals on.
i'm curious if i may have gotten a bad pedal or if it sounds like i'm having some sort of bleed problem and am unable to decipher which pedal is the culprit. is this a problem anyone else has had?
an additional OD-1 question, i found one the other day with a serial # 0400 and that one wasn't listed on the OD-1 page on the main site here. I was curious if anyone knew which chip was in that pedal (the store wouldn't open it up for me).
thanks. |
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scrappy1
Bronze Member
USA
118 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2008 : 19:01:41
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This is from the home page search.
You probably have the "D" PCB since the pedal is a March 81.
I have the #0500 and this should be the same as the #0400.
"OD-1D
Serial 8900- , 6 digit sticker
Marking of PCB: 052-281d
Switch: Black
Screw: 8900-0300, silver screw, 0500- black screw
OP-AMP: 9900 - NJM4558D (JRC)
9300,0300 - uPC4558C (NEC)
0000 TL4558P (Texas Instruments)"
Somebody will correct me if I am not right.
As for the sound bleed, I'll let the "Techies" handle that one. |
Edited by - scrappy1 on 03/09/2008 19:02:53 |
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DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2008 : 21:42:53
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Welcome to the Bossarea zentropa!  |
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Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 01:56:43
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Hi zentropa
Welcome to the Forum. |
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scrappy1
Bronze Member
USA
118 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 02:00:48
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"zentropa",
I forgot to ask you if your OD-1 is a Silver Screw or Black Screw?
My #0500 is a blackscrew. |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 02:25:24
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Welcome to the forum!!
Some of the overdrives, mainly the sd1 and I guess the od1 have a bit of a tone bleed problem when the pedal is in bypass. A designers flaw, and some people claim to hear it, and some don't.
For your other question, people general like the overdrive before the distortion for more gain, and after for a boost. But in the end, its whatever sounds best to your ears. |
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 05:14:57
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Thanks for the welcomes :)
i hope to be able to contribute as best i can as i have a moderately high experience with boss pedals over the years (i've owned 50+).
quote:
I forgot to ask you if your OD-1 is a Silver Screw or Black Screw?
My #0500 is a blackscrew
the 0400 is a black screw. i didn't buy it, but i may go back and get it. i have a JRC4558DD that i'm actually extremely happy with (i shot it out against the #0400 and mine was a ton warmer). i actually brought in a list of the serial numbers and their corresponding and the 0400 wasn't on the list which left me a bit curious :)
ChristoM:
thanks. I'm guessing it's bleed. i play a lot at low volumes (i live in an apartment) and so i have the gains/levels cranked pretty high on both the SD-1 and OD-1 and i know that generally worsens the bleed. the downside i'm having is that i prefer the OD-1 -> SD-1 when the pedals are on, but with the pedals off i'm getting so much bleed that that order is ruining my clean tone. |
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 22:37:23
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IIRC its the gain knob that causes the bleed if its past half way when in bypass. Read it somewhere long time ago.
I know a mod to stop the bleed involving a jfet and some other common parts. |
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/10/2008 : 22:44:50
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makes me debate modding them to true bypass heh.
the downside is that with both of them i tend to have to nearly max the gain (and level) to pick up much of a volume boost with my pauls and sg's. if that's a sign that some component is bad, please fill me in so i can start freaking out about every pedal i have hehe.
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member
Canada
1288 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 01:32:31
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Did a little test with my MIJ SD1 and put it second in my line up after a CS2 and PH1r. Played with the SD off and the differences with the drive at full and at nil surprised me. Theres a hint of dirty tube-ish signal with in the chain and more with the drive cranked.
Hadn't played a stock SD1 in a while and forgot about the tone bleed.
Turn your drive down when its off and it'll clean up a bit compared to full. Like I said, its a flaw in the design.
The mod i know isn't true bypass, its to bypass the tone bleed.
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 02:46:50
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yeah, i know of the tone bleed mod fix as well (i've only seen schematics for SD-1's). i was talking to a buddy of mine that mods pedals a while back (after talking about the SD808 mod) and he said he just does true bypass mods on his boss pedals which accomplishes the same thing while decreasing signal loss. this all sounds good in theory, but i guess i have that follow-up question...
why do people prefer a bleed fix mod over a true bypass mod?
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jack
Platinum Member
USA
1418 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 02:57:34
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quote:
Originally posted by zentropa
makes me debate modding them to true bypass heh.
the downside is that with both of them i tend to have to nearly max the gain (and level) to pick up much of a volume boost with my pauls and sg's. if that's a sign that some component is bad, please fill me in so i can start freaking out about every pedal i have hehe.
I have heard that true-bypass mods for Boss pedals are either nearly impossible, or are such a pain in the arse that its just not worth getting into it. But let me know if you try it and what results you get...But if true bypass is what you desire, look into either purchasing or building (building would probably be the cheapest and easiest way to go depending on your electronics experience) what is known as a Bypass-Looper. Basically you plug all your pedals into the looper which has a series of true bypass loops for your pedals, and the only pedals that are in your signal are the pedals that are on, as all the ones that are off are bypassed... |
Edited by - jack on 03/11/2008 03:01:16 |
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 03:10:32
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that would make sense as well... i know most bleed fix mods are basically 3 components and about 6-12 solders total depending upon how you rig it.
i will ask him and see what he says. this is a can of worms i'd probably only crack open if i can learn to do it myself.
i'm hoping i can get it sorted out as due to the spatial limitations between the pedals on a boss bcb-6 board, instead of setting it up how i wanted to (with 3 of the pedals going through my effects loop and 3 going to the amp and then finding there isn't enough room to fit 2 90 degree plugs in between the pedals) i've decided to have my bcb-6 have a tuner, phaser, and 4 distortion pedals going into the amp and then having a bcb-3 on my effects loop.
heh... but if i have no signal left after the 4 distortion pedals... i might have to look into things a little more. |
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bossarea
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
3652 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 12:29:01
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quote:
Originally posted by zentropa
i actually brought in a list of the serial numbers and their corresponding and the 0400 wasn't on the list which left me a bit curious :)
The information on the OD-1 page is not very well written. I should make a few changes to make it clearer.
OD-1D
Serial 8900-0500 or 6 digit sticker
Marking of PCB: 052-281d
Switch: Black
Screw:
8900-0400, silver screw
0500 or 6 digit serial, black screw
OP-AMPs:
NJM4558D (JRC)
uPC4558C (NEC)
TL4558P (Texas Instruments)
It isn't perfectly clear when they changed between the different opamp manufacturers but all OD-1s after serial 8900 will have some version of the 4558 opamp.
It is not known exactly which serial they changed from the D to the E version either but all OD-1s with 4 digit serials will be the D version. |
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2008 : 14:45:08
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| thanks for the info update :) |
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zentropa
Gold Member
USA
837 Posts |
Posted - 03/14/2008 : 02:26:05
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well, after being away from my apartment for a few days and finally making it back i was able to trace the bleed problem to the OD-1.
does anyone know if there's a rather simple bleed fix for this like there is for the SD-1?
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OD-1/DS-1 possible Bleed problem
