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 Oiling fretboards
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 03/21/2008 :  12:31:58  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by One-Way

I like to use Danish oil on unlaquered fingerboards.
Use 0000 steel wool and polish frets and clean fingerboard. Cover pickups first so steel wool bits dont stick to them. I always vacuum clean the fret board to remove all traces of dust and dirt. Then pour a little onto a cotton rag apply thickly and leave for a couple of minutes to soak in and then wipe off evenly. Leave to dry and do a second coat and the fingerboard looks like new. I use it on all my new builds and when doing repairs on friends guitars.
On lacquered Maple fingerboards that have worn thru I would use Linseed oil as it has a darker amber colour that is a better match.



Hi One-Way

I'm really glad you chimed in, as you also make guitars.
How is that beautiful (Oneway-Strat) going.
I take a refresher look at ever so often.

With the 0000 steel wool, on the brass frets, doesn't it leave microscopic bits of steel imbedded in the brass?

I was taught, to never use steel wool to clean the Copper on PCB's as it leaves-contaminates in the copper cladding, which when etched, are the circuit traces-wiring of the board.

The microscopic bits of steel wool in the copper, can then rust over time, making the board & joints less reliable.

We use the green or yellow plastic kitchen scouring pads, as they leave no metallic or other residue.

On an off note:
Any hints?

I chipped a 3mmx x 4.5mm/6mm flake off the the edge of my aged yellow 1992 -- 52RI Blondie Ash Tele a few weeks ago.
It chipped off just under the Volume pot on the very edge, some crap fell off my lab bench, & the Tele & Stand were just too close.

That finish is like hard glass or amber, I did manage to find the larger bit that chipped off, but I can't see myself trying to stick it back on, the finish is over 2mm thick.
not at least till I stop kicking myself

You can PM me if you like.

Regards Dr. Bob

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pedals 4 pv
Platinum Member

Canada
1351 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  04:18:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You may be able to drop fill the chip with superglue, Dr. Bob. I will forward an article from stewmac to your e-mail.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  04:38:32  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi pedals 4 pv

Thanks for the PM and info,
I have seen this method used before, but not in quite so much detail.

Regards Dr. Bob
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zentropa
Gold Member

USA
837 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  04:53:47  Show Profile  Send zentropa an AOL message  Reply with Quote
i used to hang out and chat with the lead tech at a guitar repair/luthier shop.

i asked once about fretboard oiling and they recommended no more than once every 6 months. they recommended linseed or lemon oil.

as for fret cleaning, they recommended this:
http://www.nevrdull.com/
they gave me a sample and i've been using it ever since.
it's basically a roll of cotton treated with polish that you tear pieces off of.



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pedals 4 pv
Platinum Member

Canada
1351 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  05:21:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
When cleaning frets I use steel wool. I never thought of neverdull, I use that on my bike. I must try it next time. I used the green painters masking tape to mask the fretboard and inlays when I did my acoustic a few weeks ago. The frets that you can't use were getting dull after 18 years.
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zentropa
Gold Member

USA
837 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  05:26:43  Show Profile  Send zentropa an AOL message  Reply with Quote
not sure if it's best to tape off fretboards before using nevrdull but it's probably good to err on the side of caution. i will say to tape off maple for sure... i found this out the hard way.

i can say it makes frets nice and shiny without taking off any fret. i also use it on tuning keys, bridges, pickup covers, etc. and it does wonders. leaves a bit of residue that easily wipes off.
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One-Way
Bronze Member

New Zealand
104 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  10:17:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use Autosol metal polish to shine frets. Best to mask down each side of fret to stop dried white polish embedding into fingerboard. I also wipe down strings/fingerboard and frets with Kysor Dr Stringfellows to keep all clean and shiny. Stops all that black gunk that builds up on your strings and stains your fingers if they are not cleaned regularly. I dont know if strings last longer sound wise but certainly keeps everything pristine clean.
I had a friends Les Paul for repair and I was disgusted at the crud stuck on the fingerboard along side each fret. Took me a while to scrub it off with steel wool then oil it but he was blown away how good his guitar looked (Polished the fine scratches out of the body as well)so it shined like new.
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One-Way
Bronze Member

New Zealand
104 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  10:29:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dr Bob
I cant seem to be able to edit my post. The Strat is going great and been played 99% of the time apart from a short burst with my LP style guitar so I could get a contrast of sound for recording. I must admit the palm muting crunch with its deep dark sound was an awesome contrast to the strat bright lively sound.
If your strat has yellowed maybe your could apply some linseed oil using a toothpick to the crater and slot the chip back in place and carefully fill any gaps remaining.
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Fabius
Silver Member

320 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2008 :  12:44:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I own all guitars with rosewood fretboards except one and any time that I change strings I use a product called Pronto Legno Vivo a product for wood with wax of bees by SC Johnson that I used from many years and the results are very very good.

Distribute the product on the fretboard with fingers, leave it a pair of minutes, then use cotton discs (I use the same my wife uses to de-makeup) to remove the dirt. Wash the hands accurately!
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Goran
Double Platinum Member

Sweden
2203 Posts

Posted - 03/25/2008 :  08:54:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have thrown my Linseed oil away and should use Lemon oil with care in the future�
Olive or Almond oil should be safe to use, violin players use Olive oil.
I have followed many discussions on other forums on this subject, and there is no completely 100% answer. Opinions differ, and regarding Lemon oil, very few are actually pure Lemon oil even if the label states it.
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redundant
Silver Member

Turkey
247 Posts

Posted - 04/09/2008 :  07:20:19  Show Profile  Visit redundant's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Goran

I have thrown my Linseed oil away and should use Lemon oil with care in the future�
Olive or Almond oil should be safe to use, violin players use Olive oil.





Olive oil, which, in Istanbul, is cheaper & easier to find than any oil mentioned so far (my wife's mother has an olive tree in her backyard) works just fine.
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FRANZONI
Double Platinum Member

Ireland
3543 Posts

Posted - 04/09/2008 :  09:04:34  Show Profile  Visit FRANZONI's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by redundant

quote:
Originally posted by Goran

I have thrown my Linseed oil away and should use Lemon oil with care in the future�
Olive or Almond oil should be safe to use, violin players use Olive oil.





Olive oil, which, in Istanbul, is cheaper & easier to find than any oil mentioned so far (my wife's mother has an olive tree in her backyard) works just fine.



+1....................
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Caliban
Bronze Member

United Kingdom
145 Posts

Posted - 04/10/2008 :  21:50:07  Show Profile  Click to see Caliban's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
I've cleaned frets with Brasso before... excellent results (it's a dedicated non-abrasive metal polish). Mask off the fretboard, though, it's not so good for wood.
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