| Author |
 Topic  |
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
|
|
DeFrag
Moderator
USA
3409 Posts |
 Posted - 01/24/2009 : 02:50:41
|
Looks decent.. tremolo is one of my favorite effects.  |
 |
|
|
Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 01/24/2009 : 04:03:20
|
Hi timbo
The only problem you'll run into is.
When the Mag "Silicon chip & the now-defunct EA Electronics Australia" design that kind of stuff.
They have no real idea that real muso's need foot switches, and more of a pedal-stompbox format.
If you noticed, all bypass is on the front panel,
not very convenient, and impossible to active-deactivate while playing.
They build it from a HiFi perspective.
The quality of the circuitry & design is usually top quality.
Other than for the position-type & mounting of the switches & controls.
It's common to all their designs.
I sort of... remember this one from a few years back,
BTW, if you get a chance, check the input impedance of the circuit,
as I mentioned, they tend to design it from the HiFi perspective, & might have forgotten to make this one a hi-Z input,
most of their HiFi designs were in the order of around 10K input impedance (Z).
If your not sure, PM me a copy of the Sch, & I'll check it for you.
Let us all know how it works out.
Regards Dr. Bob 
|
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 01/24/2009 04:06:11 |
|
|
|
zerksies
Double Platinum Member
USA
3406 Posts |
Posted - 01/24/2009 : 04:18:45
|
| Looks like something they had in the attic for a few years |
|
|
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
Posted - 01/24/2009 : 04:28:07
|
quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Bob
If you noticed, all bypass is on the front panel,
not very convenient, and impossible to active-deactivate while playing.
the guy said in the description that it has a footswitch jack which is fine with me if it works!
quote:
BTW, if you get a chance, check the input impedance of the circuit,
as I mentioned, they tend to design it from the HiFi perspective, & might have forgotten to make this one a hi-Z input,
most of their HiFi designs were in the order of around 10K input impedance (Z).
i think that might be the best idea, as i enjoy making things but really dont know too much about that type of stuff!
|
|
|
|
Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 01/24/2009 : 04:34:31
|
Hi timbo
On the front of the box or the instruction sheet,
it will tell you which Mag.-month-year it was from.
Please let me know that info, I might even have it in my archive of older mags.
Is it OK if I PM you? On a musical, but slightly unrelated topic.
Regards Dr. Bob |
|
|
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
Posted - 01/24/2009 : 06:34:29
|
pm away doc!
-- SENT -- |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 01/24/2009 08:31:47 |
|
|
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2009 : 09:09:23
|
woooo! it finally arrived today. looks simple enough for my newb self to build. it has an "opto-coupler" which sounds cool and i guess will be different than other tremolos.
dr bob, i will send you a pm if you dont reply to this...
its from silicon chip, april 2001, cat no. K 5622. if this doesn't help i will take some pics of the diagrams in the instructions. |
|
|
|
Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2009 : 13:25:19
|
Hi timbo
I will check st see if I still have that edition of SC.
There is nothing like the thrill of opening up a kit of parts,
& trying to imagine how it will, turn out & sound.
Can I ask you to send some pics of the overall kit & parts anyway.
I'm sure the guys here would be keen to see your progress from, parts to Trem.
We will be like your moral support. And feel like we've been helping you along. 
Which opto-coupler did they supply in the kit?
Regards Dr. Bob |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 02/02/2009 13:26:03 |
|
|
|
FRANZONI
Double Platinum Member
Ireland
3543 Posts |
Posted - 02/02/2009 : 14:02:47
|
Good luck.... have fun building it...... |
|
|
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 09:21:12
|
heres some pics lads! going to start it on the weekend.
not sure what the opto-coupler is dr bob, its made up of a clear red led, heat shrink and something that absorbs it...
 |
|
|
|
FRANZONI
Double Platinum Member
Ireland
3543 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 10:34:10
|
| Looks great............ |
|
|
|
Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 12:09:08
|
Hi Timbo
Looks like some serious (propeller hat) fun.
That device is called a (LDR - Light Dependent Resistor) or Photoresistor (orange thing under the red LED in pic-3).
It typically has part numbers like ORP-(numbers).
The OPR-12 was the most common LDR in use, when I was a teenager & learning to blow things up - least possibly...
It's made from cadmium sulfide, and is sometimes referred to as a cadmium sulfide (CdS) cell.
Here is a neat animated example:
http://www.technologystudent.com/elec1/ldr1.htm
More theory from Wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoresistor
I'm still searching for the SC mag.
I've found March & May....
Regards Dr. Bob |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 02/03/2009 12:09:54 |
|
|
|
timbo
Silver Member
Australia
252 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 12:24:44
|
| cool dr bob! so it doesn't matter which way it goes, as in + and -? should be an easy build, just need to get a new tip for my soldering iron and maybe a true bypass looper. who knows, maybe i will build one next! |
|
|
|
Dr. Bob
Moderator
Australia
6593 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 12:43:39
|
quote:
Originally posted by timbo
cool dr bob! so it doesn't matter which way it goes, as in + and -? should be an easy build, just need to get a new tip for my soldering iron and maybe a true bypass looper. who knows, maybe i will build one next!
If you are referring to the LDR, it's not polarity sensitive, it's just a fancy resistor.
Don't apply too much heat, to the leads when soldering the LDR.
to avoid overheating, when soldering, you can use the tips of some fine tipped - long nosed pliers, near the body of the LDR, & solder on the other side.
It's an old trick we use to use, in the early Ge days to avoid damaging the transistors or Ge diodes.
The LED's as you know are diodes, & are polarity sensitive.
same goes with over heating the LED's.
I have seen this type of homemade opto.
it's really just a bright LED or light globe sitting in front of an LDR, in some BLACK heatshrink tubing.
Simple & effective, easy to make at home.
When making the opto, just follow their instructions & you'll be OK.
Timbo - as an after though, spend a few dollars & get some good quality IC sockets, the ones in the kit, are called single wipe sockets & are fairly cheap.
They will work ok, but are not too reliable long term.
Ask for Machined sockets, they will be about one or two dollars each maybe less.
Here are some examples I found:
http://www.king-cart.com/phoenixent/product=SOCKETS+DIP+IC+MACHINED/exact_match=exact
In this link, it;s the second one down, called machine tooled ic socket.
http://www.futurlec.com/SockIC.shtml
I guess you can now see the difference,
& any good electronics supplier will stock them.
Regards Dr. Bob |
Edited by - Dr. Bob on 02/03/2009 12:53:42 |
|
|
|
sp-1
Platinum Member
Germany
1454 Posts |
Posted - 02/03/2009 : 12:52:30
|
Nice looking kit  |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
tremolo kit
