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 What can I build with an MN3102 and MN3207 ??
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member

Canada
4854 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  01:42:48  Show Profile  Visit Laurie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
So I bought a crappy little "echo" unit at the thrift store and lo and behold it has an MN3102 and a MN3207 inside...

Thinking I can build a nice "clone" of a Boss pedal - the BF-2 is an obvious choice, but I already have one

The CE-2 uses an MN3007 and an MN3101... I wonder if the MN3102 and a MN3207 would work equally well?

ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  02:18:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The MN3207 was used on later CE2s, if you google analogman and ce2 he explains it better, in a nutshell, the 3207 was darker than the 3007.

Guessing the BBD driver would work as well, its used on lots of chorus and flangers pedals.

Thinkin of making a CE2 clone?
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member

Canada
4854 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  02:20:12  Show Profile  Visit Laurie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ChristoMephisto
Thinkin of making a CE2 clone?



Indeed yes! Can't seem to see one to buy for less than $100... and I have some/most of the parts.
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  04:04:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=53
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plautz
Copper Member

Brazil
8 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  15:46:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The MN3102 / MN3207 do not work on the same circuit as the MN3007 / MN3101.

I think you can build a clone of CE-3, like me.
Look at the board I�ve cloned.

Solder side.




Components.



Regards.

Edited by - plautz on 04/02/2008 15:47:30
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Laurie
Double Platinum Member

Canada
4854 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  15:50:20  Show Profile  Visit Laurie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by plautz

The MN3102 / MN3207 do not work on the same circuit as the MN3007 / MN3101.

I think you can build a clone of CE-3, like me.
Look at the board I�ve cloned.



WOW!! Nice!! Where did you get the board? Do you have one spare I could buy from you?
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2008 :  16:02:23  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi plautz

Very nice layout, did you use opaque tape/s & donut/pads.
Any chance you might post a link to the 1:1 layout/artwork.

Did you put this PCB into a case & finish it off, please post some pictures, if you can.
I am sure all the guys here would be very keen to see the finished product.

Regards Dr. Bob
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plautz
Copper Member

Brazil
8 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2008 :  23:01:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by lauries2

WOW!! Nice!! Where did you get the board? Do you have one spare I could buy from you?


Hi Lauries2,

I made the board by myself. I don�t know if it is interesting / cheaper send it to you, but if you really want, let me know. We can discuss about it. This PCB i made in 10 minutes, and is cheap (less than US$ 2).

quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Bob

Hi plautz

Very nice layout, did you use opaque tape/s & donut/pads.
Any chance you might post a link to the 1:1 layout/artwork.

Did you put this PCB into a case & finish it off, please post some pictures, if you can.
I am sure all the guys here would be very keen to see the finished product.

Regards Dr. Bob




Hi Dr. Bob,

I use this glossy paper:


The process I use to make this board are in this video -> http://br.youtube.com/watch?v=_O8CX2F3mzU (I made the video, so I�m speaking in portuguese). With this process I�m able to make boards like this (tracks with 0,34mm):



Yes, I can post a link to pdf with board (ready to transfer), layout and material list, if this are not against the forun�s rules. When I arrive at home I�ll do that.

This Chorus I�ll give to one friend. I also have cloned OD-1, DS-1, SD-1 and CE-2. And made OD-1 (finished and working) and CE-2 (I�m waiting for IC�s).
Just to explain, I clone the pcb�s from Manual Services or schema + internal pictures, and I�ll do this because here in Brazil sometimes is more cheap to clone than buy.

Thanks for all, guys.
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bossarea
Forum Admin

United Kingdom
3652 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2008 :  23:10:23  Show Profile  Visit bossarea's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by plautz

Yes, I can post a link to pdf with board (ready to transfer), layout and material list, if this are not against the forun�s rules. When I arrive at home I�ll do that.

Not a problem, please go ahead.
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ChristoMephisto
Platinum Member

Canada
1288 Posts

Posted - 04/03/2008 :  23:26:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow!!

Hats off to you and your ingenunity
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plautz
Copper Member

Brazil
8 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2008 :  01:40:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi,

Like I said, here they are the pdf�s that I�ve created to CE-3 and OD-1.
First, pictures.

CE-3. Left, original board. Center Artwork. Right, cloned board.



OD-1. Left, original board. Center Artwork. Right, cloned board.



And, finally, the links (right click, save as).

CE-3 -> http://www.asef.com.br/boss/CE-3-English.pdf
OD-1 -> http://www.asef.com.br/boss/OD-1-English.pdf

Regards.
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Dr. Bob
Moderator

Australia
6593 Posts

Posted - 04/04/2008 :  08:40:03  Show Profile  Visit Dr. Bob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi plautz

Very nice work.
And excellent finish results.

I'm sure a lot of the guys here would like to know,
what method/s do you use to convert the Picture of the PCB
to the Black & white artwork?

I see from your video that you use a solution of hydrochloric acid to etch the PCB's.

What strength of solution do you use?

I use Ammonium Persulphate, it's not to hard to get here in Australia.
it slower but a bit safer.

Regards Dr. Bob
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plautz
Copper Member

Brazil
8 Posts

Posted - 04/05/2008 :  19:30:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Dr. Bob.

Thanks for all.

To produce the artwork I take a board picture (solder side) and import into Corel. Then I resize the picture until it reach the right size (I use a DIL8 pattern to know that the picture is at right size).
With the picture with right size I use, basically, 2 tools: elipse, to make the holes, and freehand tool, to make tracks.
After the artwork is finished, I flip it (necessary to make artwork ready to transfer), copy it, change de color do 20% black and insert the components (that I have in another .cdr file).
Finnaly, I create the bill of materials.
Basically, is that. Some boards needs more time than others.
The solution on the video was used on a test board. I use this solution only when I have to do to many boards.
This solution (HCL 40% + H2O2 130% + H2O) is very, very strong. I have to use glooves, glasses and mask as a protection (did you see smoke getting out the board on the video?). The solution can make the board on the video (20cm X 20cm) in only 2:30 minutes.
When I have to make only one or twoo boards I use ferric chloride (FeCl3).
Let me know if I was clear.

Regards.
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mwichni
Copper Member

Poland
17 Posts

Posted - 11/10/2008 :  18:00:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi, could someone send me the artwork pcb of the ce-3? Because links on this topic doesn't work now.

Edited by - mwichni on 11/10/2008 18:00:48
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zerksies
Double Platinum Member

USA
3406 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2008 :  02:01:00  Show Profile  Send zerksies an AOL message  Click to see zerksies's MSN Messenger address  Send zerksies a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
you could probably make some good money doing that
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whiskeytown
Copper Member

United Kingdom
16 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2008 :  19:30:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hey dude great work, really
did you use Corel Draw for that stuff?!
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